The Enormocast: a climbing podcast

On Episode 304 of the Enormocast, climber Sam Stroh drops by my suite at the Arcteryx Academy in Squamish to talk climbing and get to the bottom of a misunderstanding. Sam cut his teeth in New Mexico and soon after high school was on the road as a classic itinerant dirtbag. After falling in with … Continue reading "Enormocast 304: Sam Stroh – Naturally Decent"

Transcribed - Published: 23 April 2025

On Episode 303 of the Enormocast I sit down with one of the most compelling and somewhat enigmatic climbers of our times: Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll. It was a multi-year dance, but we finally sat down puss-a-puss in the Canadian Rockies at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. Sean is known for his big wall antics across … Continue reading "Enormocast 303: Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll – A Very Particular Set of Skills"

Transcribed - Published: 4 April 2025

Episode 302 of the Enormocast is the annual airing of grievances in climbing: the laments, the beefs, and the sad truths of the dumb shit we do as climbers. What was formerly known as Taps is now Last Rites. Once again, this year’s slam evolves from listeners’ calls. Andy Salo, Andrew Bisharat, and Mary “Token … Continue reading "Enormocast 302: Last Rites 2025 (FKA Taps) Don’t Side-Eye the Trad-Dad Edition"

Transcribed - Published: 11 March 2025

On Episode 301 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a posh hotel in Squamish, BC, with alpinist Quentin Roberts. We met up at the Arc’teryx Academy in August 2024 on a rainy day to talk about Quentin’s life as a climber. Quentin grew up attending boarding schools in several countries and despite not fitting … Continue reading "Enormocast 301: Quentin Roberts – Listening to The Mountain"

Transcribed - Published: 5 February 2025

On the auspicious Episode 300 of the Enormocast, Alex Honnold hijacks the Enormocast to interview Chris Kalous of the Enormocast. Yes, it turns out that Alex Honnold gets to have everything. Alex takes the interview skills that he’s honed over at Climbing Gold and talks to Chris about his climbing origins, podcast pioneering, and why … Continue reading "Enormocast 300: Chris Kalous by Alex Honnold – No Retreat, No Surrender"

Transcribed - Published: 13 January 2025

On Episode 299 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a fine hotel suite with the elegant Nina Caprez. We met up at the Arc’teryx Academy in Squamish, and after a Co-MC gig on the main stage the previous night, Nina and I reviewed our performance and then got down to business reviewing the 9 … Continue reading "Enormocast 299: Nina Caprez – Two Roads Just as Fair"

Transcribed - Published: 27 December 2024

On Episode 298 of the Enormocast, I sit down in with Boulder, Colorado legend, Jim Erickson. Turns out that when Jim climbed the crags and roamed the streets of Boulder in the late 60s and 70s, it was a cow-town – not the bougie climbing mecca we love to hate on today. Erickson grew up … Continue reading "Enormocast 298: Jim Erickson – Clean and Free in the 1970s"

Transcribed - Published: 12 December 2024

On Episode 297 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Munising, Michigan with local Midwest legend, Paul Kuenn. In his youth near Milwaukee, Wisconsin, Paul was drawn to the outdoors: fly-fishing, cross-country skiing, and finally, climbing at Devil’s Lake. Climbing became obsession which brought him to the PNW to become a guide and to Colorado … Continue reading "Enormocast 297: Paul “PK” Kuenn – The Dairylander"

Transcribed - Published: 26 November 2024

On Episode 296 of the Enormocast, we rebroadcast an interview that was recorded live at the Banff Mountain Film Festival with alpinist and Canadian legend, Barry Blanchard. Barry showed up at the Banff Centre at 9:45am and brought the fire and the wisdom of 50 years in the game. Barry’s feted exploits range from his … Continue reading "Enormocast 296: Barry Blanchard Live in Banff"

Transcribed - Published: 11 November 2024

On Episode 295 of the Enormocast, I sit down at a splintery picnic table on a hot morning in Lander, Wyoming with Aaron Peterson. Aaron is a young (ish) climber for whom activism, protest, and speaking his mind goes hand in hand with his motivations as a climber. At a cost to his mental health, … Continue reading "Enormocast 295 – Aaron Peterson: Paying His Dues"

Transcribed - Published: 28 October 2024

On Episode 295 of the Enormocast, I sit down at a splintery picnic table on a hot morning in Lander, Wyoming with Aaron Peterson. Aaron is a young (ish) climber for whom activism, protest, and speaking his mind goes hand in hand with his motivations as a climber. At a cost to his mental health, … Continue reading "Enormocast 295: Aaron Peterson – Paying His Dues"

Transcribed - Published: 28 October 2024

On Episode 294 of the Enormocast, I connect to Katoomba, NSW in Australia- the heart of the Blue Mountains, to chat with photographer Simon Carter. Simon has been in the game as long as anyone currently active, and after four decades of producing some of the most iconic images in climbing, he’s published a retrospective: … Continue reading "Enormocast 294: Simon Carter – Climbing Through the Lens"

Transcribed - Published: 11 October 2024

On Episode 293 of the Enormocast, I connect with paraclimber Jim Ewing. Jim grew up climbing in the storied days of 1980s North Conway in New Hampshire. In his formative climbing years, Ewing rubbed elbows with the likes of Randy Radcliff, Alison Osius, and Hugh Herr. He didn’t know it while eeking out a dirtbag … Continue reading "Enormocast 293: Jim Ewing – The Quality of Life"

Transcribed - Published: 25 September 2024

On Episode 292 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a hotel in Squamish (Sḵwx̱wú7mesh) during the Arc’teryx Academy with Olympian Hamish McArthur and British competition climber Holly Toothill. I arrived in Squamish with Hamish booked and asked Holly to join at the last minute as a friend, teammate, and observer of Hamish’s performance in … Continue reading "Enormocast 292: Hamish McArthur and Holly Toothill – Showing Up"

Transcribed - Published: 13 September 2024

On Episode 291 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a cool hotel room in a hot town, Lander, with climber Aubrey Runyon. After completing 10k pitches in the famed Boulder climbing area, her friends call Aubrey the Unofficial Mayor of Eldo, but she cringes at the title. However, the road to 10k pitches started … Continue reading "Enormocast 291: Aubrey Runyon – The Long Road Home"

Transcribed - Published: 28 August 2024

On Episode 290 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a cool, dark hotel room on a bright and HOT day in Lander, WY with bigwall climber, Hayden Jamieson. Hayden and I both slumped into our chairs after escaping the 100 degree day outside and tried to gather ourselves for the interview, and that’s when … Continue reading "Enormocast 290 – Hayden Jamieson: Through the Valley of Darkness"

Transcribed - Published: 12 August 2024

On Episode 290 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a cool, dark hotel room on a bright and HOT day in Lander, WY with bigwall climber, Hayden Jamieson. Hayden and I both slumped into our chairs after escaping the 100 degree day outside and tried to gather ourselves for the interview, and that’s when … Continue reading "Enormocast 290: Hayden Jamieson -Through the Valley of Darkness"

Transcribed - Published: 12 August 2024

On Episode 289 of the Enormocast, I connect to Nashville, TN to talk to climber and musician Smith Curry. Smith is one of the busiest session players in Music City on dobro and pedal steel. He also happens to be a veteran climber with big walls, first ascents, and alpine gnar under his harness-belt. Smith … Continue reading "Enormocast 289: Smith Curry – A Climber Boy Can Survive"

Transcribed - Published: 24 July 2024

On Episode 288 of the Enormocast, I reunite with Don McGrath, the author of the book Vertical Mind. Don appeared nearly a decade ago on the podcast, and his book on the mindset of climbing has never left the conversion. Don has spent the last 10 years learning even more about overcoming the hurdles our … Continue reading "Enormocast 288: Don McGrath – The Vertical Mind Returns"

Transcribed - Published: 10 July 2024

On Episode 287 of the Enormocast, I connect with Paraclimbing champion, Mo Beck. Mo was born with one hand, and her parents were determined to make sure she was ready for challenges of life like any other kid. When Mo ran into a camp counselor that told her that she didn’t HAVE TO climb if … Continue reading "Enormocast 287: Mo Beck – A Certain Version of Fine"

Transcribed - Published: 21 June 2024

In the early 2000s, Didier Berthod was the best crack climber in the world, then he dropped out of climbing and essentially disappeared from the world. When we left Didier Berthod in Facing the World Part 1, he had emerged from monastic life, contacted the daughter he had never seen, and returned to climbing. In … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: Didier Berthod – Facing the World (Part 2)"

Transcribed - Published: 7 June 2024

On Episode 287 of the Enormocast, I connect through to America’s hat with Swiss crack-master, Didier Berthod. You might have heard about Didier from his recent send of Cobra Crack. The media mentions Didier disappearing from climbing for 10 years, returning to slay the Cobra, yada, yada, but that Didier’s completion of the Cobra has … Continue reading "Enormocast 286: Didier Berthod – Facing the World (Part 1)"

Transcribed - Published: 4 June 2024

On Episode 285 of the Enormocast, after long last, I connect with Belgian rock-climber and alpinist, Nico Favresse. Nico is certainly a contender for the most experienced expedition rock-climber of all time. Perhaps only rivalled by his ubiquitous partner, Sean Villanueva-O’Driscoll? Nevertheless, Nico is an all-arounder who has tackled the biggest and most remote bigwalls … Continue reading "Enormocast 285: Nico Favresse – Mad to Live"

Transcribed - Published: 15 May 2024

On Episode 284 of the Enormocast, we connect across the pond to North Wales in the U.K. and into the living room of Emma Twyford. Emma is a pioneering woman in that rarified air of hard, desperate trad that only the old country can serve up. She is the first British woman to climb 9a … Continue reading "Enormocast 284: Emma Twyford – Getting on With It"

Transcribed - Published: 9 April 2024

On Episode 283 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a hotel in Munising, Michigan at the Michigan Icefest with Alaska-based alpinist, Clint Helander. What with the Chris Kalous Dance Party and the last call nightcap(s) at a bar literally called Whisky Dick’s, it had been a long night and an early morning for both … Continue reading "Enormocast 283: Clint Helander – To Live in Hearts We Leave Behind"

Transcribed - Published: 8 April 2024

On Episode 282 of the Enormocast, I sit down with US Olympic qualifier, Natalia Grossman. That’s right, Natalia is headed to Paris to represent the US in Lead and Boulder combined (speed is separate this time around). But this moment was caught during a bit of down time for Natalia as she ramps up for … Continue reading "Enormocast 282: Natalia Grossman – The Tyranny of Expectations"

Transcribed - Published: 21 March 2024

On this in-between episode of the Enormocast, Harvey Wright from Episode 222 returns to discuss his ongoing treatment and recovery for addiction. But more importantly, Harvey is here to talk about his new album, Patio Pacifica, written almost entirely while in a Vancouver treatment facility. Also, we talk about the rough and dirty years since … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: Harvey Wright Returns with Patio Pacifica"

Transcribed - Published: 16 March 2024

On Episode 281 of the Enormocast, Jon Hawk and Tye Liggins from Memphis Rox join to discuss the mission of the famous pay-what-you-can gym, Memphis Rox, in the inner-city of Memphis, TN. Jon is director of operations, and Tye went from walk-in to head coach and course-setter. Memphis Rox, founded by Tom Shadyac in 2018, … Continue reading "Enormocast 281: Jon Hawk and Tye Liggins of Memphis Rox – Peace Above All"

Transcribed - Published: 1 March 2024

On Episode 280 of the Enormocast we present the 2024 Taps edition of the Enormocast. This is the annual episode where we lay to rest traditions, foibles, and notions in climbing that are either sadly going to sleep never to reawaken, or should be put to bed for good. The Enormocast is joined by our … Continue reading "Enormocast 280: Taps 2024 – The Really Bollocks Edition"

Transcribed - Published: 14 February 2024

On episode 279 of the Enormocast, we have an allt-ime double-header. First, David Smart joins from Toronto to talk about his life as a climber and his new book from The Mountaineers, Royal Robbins: The American Climber. Royal Robbins was one of the most influential climbers of all time, and David’s book is the most … Continue reading "Enormocast 279: David Smart and Royal Robbins – Some Work of Noble Note"

Transcribed - Published: 31 January 2024

On Episode 278 of the Enormocast, I connect with Thomas Bukowski from my home to his van sitting in Yosemite. Thomas had just completed three El Cap routes in three days, and was recovering. His next adventures in Patagonia were just on the horizon. Thomas is an American citizen, but is also half Chinese and … Continue reading "Enormocast 278: Thomas Bukowski – A Funny Little Life"

Transcribed - Published: 16 January 2024

As we stare down into the howling void of Government regulation of our dear sport, let us give thanks and a listen to Armando Menocal from 2015. Armando has made it his life’s work to keep the simpering bureaucrats in Washington and elsewhere at bay. But lately, they have reared their heads in an attempt … Continue reading "Enormocast Rebroadcast: Episode 93: Armando Menocal – The Peaceful Climbing Warrior"

Transcribed - Published: 10 January 2024

On Episode 277 of the Enormocast, we connect with the inimitable Kurt Smith. Kurt grew up in the 70s in Tahoe and through friendships with local climbers like Rick Lovelace and encounters with Yosemite Climber, Kurt found himself in Joshua Tree amongst the Stonemasters in the early 80s. Soon, Kurt and his crew were making … Continue reading "Enormocast 277: Kurt Smith – The Iconoclast"

Transcribed - Published: 22 December 2023

When we left the boys in the last Episode, they had just summited the Trango Tower via the 2nd ascent of Cowboy Direct. In this installment, the summit emotions and revelations come fast and furious as well as the realization that hits every alpinist on the summit: “Oh, shit, we still gotta get off this … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: A Candid Ascent of Trango Tower with Jordan Cannon, Jesse Huey, and Matt Segal [Part 2]"

Transcribed - Published: 12 December 2023

On Episode 276 of the Enormocast, three guys dreamed big and got it done. Climbers Jordan Cannon and Jesse Huey hitched their wagons to Matt Segal‘s long standing dream of free climbing the second ascent of Todd Skinner et al’s master piece, Cowboy Direct, on Trango Tower in Pakistan (AKA Nameless Tower). What ensued was … Continue reading "Enormocast 276: A Candid Ascent of Trango Tower with Jordan Cannon, Jesse Huey, and Matt Segal [Part 1]"

Transcribed - Published: 7 December 2023

On Episode 275 of the Enormocast, I sit down face to face with Finnish climber Anna Laitenin. After a youth in gymnastics, Anna found climbing and then almost accidentally found herself one of the best climbers in Finland. A life of competitions and pursuing hard climbs at home and beyond followed, as did becoming a … Continue reading "Enormocast 275: Anna Liina Laitinen – Born to Kiivetä"

Transcribed - Published: 22 November 2023

On Episode 274 of the Enormocast, I connect over the Atlantic with Swiss alpinist, guide, and Eiger North Face aficionado, Roger Schaeli. Roger was born directly in the Swiss alps and learned to climb at an early age with his father. Surrounded by deep Swiss climbing culture, an early accident did not deter Roger, rather … Continue reading "Enormocast 274: Roger Schaeli – In The Shadow of the Eiger"

Transcribed - Published: 9 November 2023

On Episode 273 of the Enormocast, I reconnect with Brette Harrington who appeared on the Enormocast in 2016. Just after that first appearance, Brette and Mayan Smith-Gobat left for an audacious attempt on free climbing Riders on the Storm on Torre Central on the Torres de Paine massif. Even though they failed in their ultimate … Continue reading "Enormocast 273: Brette Harrington – Keeper of the Flame"

Transcribed - Published: 25 October 2023

On Episode 272 of the Enormocast, I connect with young trad-phenom, Connor Herson. Connor first burst into climbing’s collective consciousness with the 6th free ascent of the Nose at the tender age of 15. Connor had already climbed 14 5.14s by the age of 14 (say that ten times fast), and he went on to … Continue reading "Enormocast 272: Connor Herson – Deeds of Youth"

Transcribed - Published: 12 October 2023

On Episode 271, I am joined by climbing coach and former (maybe) competitor, Charlie Schreiber. Charlie coaches climbers of all ages, but the meat of this conversation is about youth climbing teams. Charlie has been a youth climbing coach since he was a youth himself. We discuss my own skepticism about the promise of youth … Continue reading "Enormocast 271: Charlie Schreiber – The Kids are Alright"

Transcribed - Published: 27 September 2023

On Episode 270 of the Enormocast, we are joined by indigenous activist and climber, Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard. Though her path to accepting her heritage as a member of the CHamoru/Tugong Clan with origins in Guam was not without struggles, Briana has spent the last 6 years advocating for indigenous peoples in Ohio and Eastern Kentucky. As … Continue reading "Enormocast 270: Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard – Doing What Needs to Be Done"

Transcribed - Published: 13 September 2023

On this in-between episode of the Enormocast, you get the outtakes from Episode 269 with climber, Tyler Karow. After the official interview ended, we kept talking about climbing in Jordan, the social cost of the itinerant climbing lifestyle, and a few more tidbits for your pleasure. And the cops showed up. Enjoy this free “bonus” … Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: Tyler Karow Saves a Goat (Maybe a Sheep?)"

Transcribed - Published: 7 September 2023

On Episode 269 of the Enormocast, I catch up with the elusive and prolific climber, Tyler Karow. Though Tyler has a popular presence on Youtube and Instagram, he still remained, for me, an enigma of sorts. Tyler burst on the national scene with a ground up free ascent of Golden Gate on El Cap (5.13) … Continue reading "Enormocast 269: Tyler Karow – Engineering the Stoke"

Transcribed - Published: 24 August 2023

On Episode 268, I connect across the northern border with former climber and current therapist, Lincoln Stoller. Lincoln came up climbing in the 70s, and his wide ranging career in climbing found him partnered with the likes of Fred Beckey, Dougal Haston, George Lowe, and John Stannard. When his interest in climbing waned, he found … Continue reading "Enormocast 268: Lincoln Stoller – The Physics of the Unknown"

Transcribed - Published: 7 August 2023

On Episode 268, I connect across the northern border with former climber and current therapist, Lincoln Stoller. Lincoln came up climbing in the 70s, and his wide ranging career in climbing found him partnered with the likes of Fred Beckey, Dougal Haston, George Lowe, and John Stannard. When his interest in climbing waned, he found … Continue reading "Enomrocast 268: Lincoln Stoller – The Physics of the Unknown"

Transcribed - Published: 7 August 2023

On the Episode 267 of the Enormocast, I sit down with alpinist and Exum guide, Mike Gardner. Mike was born to the mountains and a life in guiding with early summers in the Tetons and tagging along on expeditions with his father, George Gardner. But when George was killed in a climbing accident when Mike … Continue reading "Enormocast 267: Michael Gardner – Beyond the Legacy"

Transcribed - Published: 20 July 2023

On Episode 266 of the Enormocast, I sit down with stagehand, rigger, former BMXer, and “every-person” climber, Erik “Alleycat” Hingerty. Erik grew up underground street-riding on his BMX bike: ducking any fame, and trying to keep it real. But the accidents and injuries started to mount as he pushed his limits on a bike and … Continue reading "Enormocast 266: Erik “Alleycat” Hingerty – Above the Lighted Stage"

Transcribed - Published: 3 July 2023

On Episode 265 of the Enormocast, I connect with climber and influencer, Drew Hulsey. Drew saw Free Solo and pretty much lost his mind for climbing. Despite the feats of Alex Honnold being at the most extreme end of the sport, Drew found himself wondering “Can fat people do this?” Not even sure that the … Continue reading "Enormocast 265: Drew Hulsey – Just a Climber Like EveryBODY Else"

Transcribed - Published: 19 June 2023

On Episode 264 of the Enormocast, I connect with Alita Contreras – a Venezuelan/Colombian climber beaming in from…Georgia. Alita was born in Venezuela to a Colombian father who taught his child to love the traditions and legends of Colombia. At University while studying languages, Alita found climbing, and soon, she was pining to leave her … Continue reading "Enormocast 264: Alita Contreras – The Language of Climbing"

Transcribed - Published: 1 June 2023

On Episode 263 of the Enormocast, I sit down for a long overdue conversation with one of the greatest alpinists of all time, Steve House. Steve house spent 20 years riding the cutting edge of alpinism. His ascents of K7, The Rupal Face, and the Slovak Direct, among many more, represented a sea change in … Continue reading "Enormocast 263: Steve House – The Art of Alpinism"

Transcribed - Published: 17 May 2023