meta_pixel
Tapesearch Logo
Log in
Climbing Gold

Chapter 4: The Invisible Cord

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Wilderness, Sports

4.9983 Ratings

🗓️ 16 April 2021

⏱️ 42 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

A physical and intellectual anomaly, John Gill’s vision for climbing would ultimately drive the sport’s athletic progression and help bring it to a larger audience. It would just take the sport decades to catch up to him and acknowledge Gill’s contribution to modern bouldering that began in an intro to gymnastics class his freshman year. Also in this chapter, Alex and Nina Williams break down their shared respect for Bishop’s world class highballs.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

I've always been attracted to climbs that are aesthetically pleasing.

0:09.7

That's like a big motivator for me.

0:11.7

This is Nina Williams.

0:14.3

Nina Williams is a professional climber, has been boldering a very high level for a very long time,

0:19.7

and is known for her highball

0:22.1

ascents.

0:23.2

Super quick, what's highball bouldering for those of us who don't know?

0:26.8

High ball bouldering is really when the line with free sowing starts to blur and there start

0:31.7

to be serious consequences if you were to fall off the boulder.

0:34.9

In the U.S., there's probably no greater concentration of classic

0:38.0

highball boulders than in the buttermilks just outside of Bishop, California. The boulders, they're

0:43.6

just, they're super impressive. They're the size of houses. They range from 20 to 50 feet tall. And people

0:50.7

come from all around the world to climbing the buttermilks and admire these problems.

0:55.8

And there's plenty of shortest problems, but a far smaller percentage of anyone ever steps up to these cutting edge climbs.

1:03.3

And Nina is one of them.

1:05.3

And when I climb on these highballs, I feel like just for a few moments, I'm in this huge, wide landscape, like this big

1:12.3

piece of art. And Highball and it gives me this sense of connection to the rock, to the landscape,

1:18.0

and it's like an expression of my own piece of art, because I'm just in this amazing vista,

1:24.3

basically. I like how bouldering is this super condensed version of climbing. You have to try

1:29.6

really, really hard for a short amount of time. And all of the details come down to these really micro-movements.

1:36.6

So replacing, you know, your pointer finger with your middle finger on hold or moving your foot,

1:42.5

one dime piece to the right makes all the difference.

...

Please login to see the full transcript.

Disclaimer: The podcast and artwork embedded on this page are from Duct Tape Then Beer, and are the property of its owner and not affiliated with or endorsed by Tapesearch.

Generated transcripts are the property of Duct Tape Then Beer and are distributed freely under the Fair Use doctrine. Transcripts generated by Tapesearch are not guaranteed to be accurate.

Copyright © Tapesearch 2026.