Bit Of Gold Bonus: He Doesn't Know Beans
Climbing Gold
Duct Tape Then Beer
4.9 • 983 Ratings
🗓️ 23 April 2021
⏱️ 10 minutes
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| 0:00.0 | Hi, I'm senior producer Elizabeth Nakano. |
| 0:16.1 | Today we've got something a little different for you, a bonus episode. |
| 0:20.7 | I love this little story, but it didn't find a home in an actual episode. |
| 0:24.8 | And so we wanted to share it anyway because it's just so classic. |
| 0:28.3 | It's just an amazing story. |
| 0:30.9 | So when we talk to the pioneer of modern bouldering John Gill, he shared the story of his |
| 0:36.5 | eye-opening trip to Colorado as a teenager. |
| 0:39.7 | In the spring of 1954, later that summer, another friend and I got in his old car and drove |
| 0:47.5 | out to Colorado. And he had been climbing out in Colorado a little bit too. |
| 0:59.4 | Went to Boulder and went to Holleybar, the Holleybar shop in some basement somewhere. |
| 1:03.1 | I can't remember what their story was. |
| 1:08.3 | He may have been an engineer or something, but he and his wife opened a climbing shop in Boulder in the early 1950s. And that's where you went to get your ropes and so on. |
| 1:14.6 | And he sold mostly Army surplus stuff from the Second World War for the Mountain Division. |
| 1:19.8 | So that was my introduction to, you know, looking at various types of equipment. |
| 1:24.2 | I think it's important to remember that when a climber from the 50s or 60s talks about |
| 1:27.8 | their rope, it's not the same rope that we're using now. And it's basically not guaranteed to catch a |
| 1:34.3 | fall, which is sort of an important thing to keep in mind that, that, you know, back in the day, |
| 1:39.5 | climbing ropes didn't actually catch you if you fell necessarily. You know, they frequently broke. |
| 1:45.2 | And so, you know, |
| 1:51.8 | that's a pretty significant change from, from modern climbing. You know, nowadays, gear is all certified in certain ways and has to meet international specifications. So anything you buy for climbing nowadays, |
| 1:56.1 | you know, is, is rated. You know, like, it will work. It will catch you. You can trust your life to it. And that |
| 2:03.0 | just wasn't the case in the 50s and 60s. We picked up some equipment there. And then we went out |
... |
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