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Climbing Gold

Bit Of Gold Bonus: Crack Wars

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Wilderness, Sports

4.9983 Ratings

🗓️ 9 April 2021

⏱️ 9 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In the 1980’s, a Wells Fargo parking garage in the San Fernando Valley became a clandestine climbing laboratory and pre-runner to climbing gyms. We talk with the legendary Randy Leavitt about how he and Tony Yaniro invented a climbing move that’s withstood the test of time.

Transcript

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0:00.0

Hi everyone. I'm senior producer Elizabeth Nakano. Today, we've got a bonus episode for you. We'll be back next week with Chapter 4. Throughout our reporting,

0:22.3

writing, and editing, we found little bits of stories that didn't find a home, but we thought

0:26.9

they were super cool. In Chapter 3, we met Randy Levitt, who bolted and envisioned the Chris Sharma

0:32.9

test piece Jumbo Love. If there were a Hall of Fame for rock climbing, Randy would be in it.

0:39.0

He's established 514 Trad, 514 Sport, A5 Big Walls, and was the first person to climb and then

0:45.7

base jump off Lcap. He's one of the few climbers who has an actual climbing move named after him,

0:52.4

Levitation. And it was developed not in Yosemite Valley,

0:55.9

but in the suburban sprawl of San Fernando Valley in a bank parking garage in collaboration with

1:02.5

his regular climbing partner, the also legendary Tony Yoniro.

1:06.8

Music I saw a story about you and a story about you and Tony Niro climbing in a Wells Fargo parking structure.

1:25.9

Is that a, you know, practicing crack climbing. Is that a

1:29.4

thing? Can you talk me through that? Crack climbing has very specific muscle groups. And things like

1:34.8

that needs to be really strengthened and hardened for better crack climbing. So we would actually

1:41.6

make machines or devices, ladders and different types of devices

1:48.1

where we could strengthen those muscles. But ultimately, if you could actually find cracks to

1:52.7

train on, that was the best. And we found this banking. It was the Wells Fargo Bank. It's in San Fernando

2:00.0

Valley. It still exists. It's in San Fernando Valley.

2:02.0

It still exists.

2:02.6

It's still there.

2:06.3

And they had all these cracks that were support beams in the concrete.

2:13.1

And they were basically spacers, a giant concrete headers to hold up the parking structure.

2:15.5

And some of them were hand size.

...

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