The story of an iconic Chinese restaurant
Good Food
KCRW
4.6 • 1.1K Ratings
🗓️ 19 December 2025
⏱️ 58 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Summary
Generational family recipes take center stage.
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Kathy Fang spent her childhood shaped by 24 square blocks of San Francisco, where her father manned a wok, feeding hungry customers at the House of Nanking.
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Forager Pascal Baudar hunts down wild seeds and grains.
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Jess Shadbolt helms the kitchen at King, the ingredient-focused New York City restaurant with an aesthetic of eating simply but lavishly.
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One of the world's foremost authorities on libations, former Shakespeare professor David Wondrich delivers the history of the cocktail in comic book form.
Connect with Good Food host Evan Kleiman on Substack.
Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | From KCRW, I'm Evan Klyman, and this is good food. |
| 0:05.1 | Chinatown was created as a self-sufficient community, its own ecosystem, so that immigrants who arrive to San Francisco can find a place where they can get on their feet. |
| 0:19.4 | You know, as an outsider who comes in, some people may say, |
| 0:22.7 | wow, this, you know, this feels like a whole other world. |
| 0:25.7 | It's loud. It's bustling. There's people yelling. |
| 0:29.4 | There's all kinds of interesting aromas that some may not be accustomed to. |
| 0:34.3 | But that, to me, was my entire childhood upbringing. |
| 0:40.1 | Kathy Fang's childhood was shaped by 24 square blocks in San Francisco. She was a restaurant kid in |
| 0:46.6 | Chinatown. For over 35 years, her family has operated the House of Nanking, where in the early |
| 0:53.7 | days her father manned one walk |
| 0:56.1 | to feed a line of hungry customers that snake down the street. In a new cookbook, Kathy and her |
| 1:02.5 | father shared the history of the restaurant. Its iconic dishes and the creativity and resilience |
| 1:08.3 | that defines the House of Nanking. Hi, Kathy. Hi, Evan. Thank you for having me. |
| 1:15.6 | It's a huge honor for me to be able to come and speak with you about a book that I've been very |
| 1:21.5 | passionate about and been wanting to do quite honestly for almost two decades. And finally, my dad agreed. It is just a wonderful book. |
| 1:30.1 | It just cites you right there and is very vivid in the account of not only the restaurant, |
| 1:37.3 | but the area in which it sits. So could you please describe for us kind of the sights, |
| 1:43.2 | the sounds, the smells of the chinatown of your |
| 1:46.0 | childhood and then talk to us a little bit about how much has changed yeah um you know i feel like |
| 1:54.6 | growing up in chinatown for me i was born actually in chinatown the chinese hospital |
| 2:00.2 | i was very fortunate and |
| 2:02.5 | lucky to be raised in a place that my family could honestly say is truly reminiscent of home as in |
... |
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