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Climbing Gold

The Competitor's Mind

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Wilderness, Sports

4.9983 Ratings

🗓️ 10 September 2021

⏱️ 29 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

What goes through a climber’s brain when the lights shine and the cameras go live at a world cup stop? Ashima Shiraishi takes us on a journey into the heart and mind of a true competitor.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Alex, question. Do you ever feel anxious or nervous about climbing before you do it, like the night before or something like that?

0:15.9

No, I guess, I mean, I definitely have had a hard time sleeping before some climbs, but for me, that's

0:22.4

generally before big alpine outings. So when your alarm is set for midnight and you're about

0:28.4

to do some huge thing in the mountains. And I think for me, that that maybe triggers a little

0:33.6

more anxiety because it's so far outside of my comfort zone and then I guess you know

0:38.5

occasion I get a little anxiety trying to red point a sport route or things like that and then I guess

0:44.5

I've done you know a handful of competitions over the years and and experienced the same kind of nerves

0:51.4

before those a little bit because you know I hate I hate performing in front of people. But I don't know. I mean, it all seems relatively normal.

1:00.7

Do you think that other climbers in your peer group, you know, in the sort of professional

1:05.6

realm of the sport, do you think that they feel stress or pressure in their job? Because like I think someone

1:14.1

like me or to a lot of listeners out there on paper being a professional climber, I think most

1:19.4

passionate climbers would be like, hell yeah, sign me out. See, there are definitely a lot of

1:24.3

professional climbers that struggle with not just the pressure of climbing, like trying

1:30.1

to perform at the level that they want for climbing, but then also wanting to live up to

1:34.7

whatever it means to be a professional climber, you know, thinking they should be climbing more

1:38.1

or harder or doing cooler things or making better videos or whatever. I mean, I think that there are a lot of high-end climbers

1:46.2

that put a lot of pressure on themselves, which is probably how, you know, that's probably

1:53.0

partially how they've become professional climbers because they push themselves to climb really

1:56.7

hard. Yeah, I think it's not that uncommon to see people putting a lot of pressure on themselves

2:01.9

to perform in various ways. I often think of this quote from Julius Irving, NBA player,

2:07.3

who said something to the effect that being a professional means doing the thing you love

2:12.4

even on the days you don't love it. I mean, I think it applies to climbing quite a bit because

...

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