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Good Food

Taking stock of food culture with Ruby Tandoh

Good Food

KCRW

Society & Culture

4.51K Ratings

🗓️ 31 October 2025

⏱️ 59 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Exploring African flavors, Japanese fermentation, and a Paris farmers market.

  • Ruby Tandoh traces how our culinary tastes have transformed in our 24/7 food obsession.
  • Yasmin Khan manages stew recipes without meat.
  • Kenji Morimoto was tasked with making pickles in his family's kitchen and that assignment blossomed into a love of fermentation and putting his DIY projects to use.
  • Born in a refugee camp in Somalia, Meymuna Hussein-Cattan ended up launching a celebrated refugee aid organization as well Flavors from Afar, which earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand.
  • For the Market Report, Gillian Ferguson heads to Paris where she catches up with chef David Lebovitz at the Marche d'Aligre.

Connect with Good Food host Evan Kleiman on Substack.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

From KCRW, I'm Evan Kleinman and this is good food. I think you have to have some kind of a sense

0:08.3

of humor when you look at food culture today. You cannot be po-faced about it. It resists that.

0:13.7

It refuses that. As someone who's been interviewing people about food and food culture for more

0:20.4

than 30 years, I can deeply relate.

0:24.0

I've seen food culture swing from bacon on everything to plant-based or bust. Sometimes I look

0:30.9

at a trend like smash burgers or Dubai chocolate and wonder, how did we get here? When did food go from being sustenance to a

0:40.4

constant performative drumbeat that takes up so much of our time? Ruby Tando tackles this question

0:47.9

with depth and humor in her book, All Consuming. Hi, Ruby. Hi.

0:55.6

The book is really tremendous.

0:58.2

It is so dense, and I just love how funny you are all while describing some things that maybe shouldn't be so funny.

1:08.5

You quote Michael Pollan as saying that culture used to guide us, not moral and

1:14.2

nutritional information. And now food culture is this extravagant mix of advertising, influencers,

1:22.5

education, peer pressure, and family. And you say we should take a breath and look at the impact these forces

1:30.3

have had on each of us personally

1:32.7

so that we can take a look at the way each of us eats with less judgment.

1:39.2

Can you give us a personal example?

1:43.3

I mean, I guess just in general in my life, until I started thinking about this stuff,

1:52.0

you know, professionally, I saw my appetites as extremely personal and I was maybe a little

2:00.5

precious about them. And, you you know for a lot of my kind

2:04.3

of teenage years and younger adult years as well I didn't have a particularly good relationship

2:08.8

with food but one thing that I found really really illuminating was starting to understand myself

2:16.9

not as this unique individual with these

...

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