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Best of the Spectator

Table Talk: with Olia Hercules

Best of the Spectator

The Spectator

News Commentary, News, Daily News, Society & Culture

4.4785 Ratings

🗓️ 3 November 2020

⏱️ 19 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Olia Hercules is a chef and food writer. On the podcast, she tells Lara and Olivia about growing up in Cyprus; being disappointed by British ingredients; and teaching her son to love Ukrainian cooking.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

You can subscribe to The Spectator for 12 weeks for only 12 pounds for our print and online editions,

0:06.1

plus get six months of digital access free to the Telegraph.

0:09.8

Go to spectator.com.uk forward slash telegraph.

0:18.8

Hello and welcome to Table Talk. I'm Olivia Potts and I'm Lyra Prendergast.

0:23.6

And we are thrilled this week to be joined by Olya Hercules.

0:27.6

Olia is a chef and food writer. She is the author of the hugely popular and critically acclaimed

0:33.6

Mamushka, Caucasusers and most recently, Summer Kitchens, recipes and reminiscences from every corner of Ukraine.

0:40.8

O'Leo, thank you so much for joining us.

0:42.5

Thank you for having me.

0:44.0

O'Lean, you were born in Ukraine in 1984.

0:47.4

Can you start by telling us what your earliest memories are of food back then in Ukraine?

0:52.9

So memories, of course, are hugely unreliable.

0:55.5

But the first thing that kind of comes to mind is the first cucumber of the season.

1:02.2

Things are changing now, but in the past, before the 90s, everything was extremely seasonal.

1:06.7

So throughout the whole winter, we wouldn't have any fresh fruit or vegetables.

1:10.8

So that first cucumber come at the end of May or something, my mom would be making a salad and she would never use a chopping board.

1:17.6

She'd just be cutting it over an enamel bowl.

1:20.6

And that first kind of wift of cucumber smell is my first memory, I think. It was just so powerful because you would miss

1:30.7

it so much over the winter and then it's just like, boom, freshness and sweetness and deliciousness.

1:35.9

Was your mother the main cook in your household growing up? My mom was the main cook, yeah.

1:40.0

My dad is amazing also, but yeah, she was and still is an amazing cook.

1:45.0

And what are the kind of classic childhood dishes that you'd get in Ukraine?

...

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