SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 27 January 2024

⏱️ 69 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO! We talked about how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more! Jon's Original Episode: EP 50: Jon Cardwell

Transcript

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0:00.0	How's it going, man?
0:03.0	Good. How are you doing?
0:05.0	I'm really good.
0:06.0	Yeah. You, um, are you down in Waco right now?
0:10.0	I am. Yeah.
0:11.0	Waco season, so you're dealing with all the rain?
0:14.0	Yeah, it's, it hasn't been too bad. We got rain Tuesday, Wednesday.
0:19.0	We were able to climb yesterday. It was beautiful outside. I think the park's closed again today, but I'm talking to you. You got a work day. It's all good. Yeah. Yeah. You kind of need those double rest days every now and then in Waco. Like everyone, I think it's kind of funny. It rains and everyone freaks out and goes to the gym. And I'm like, you guys, like, We're all climbing way too much all the time. Like we should just chill the fuck out and goes to the gym and I'm like you guys like we're all climbing way too much all the
0:38.6	time like we should just chill the fuck out and embrace the extra rest but yeah wake was definitely
0:44.6	conducive to a lot of climbing and short periods of time just because it's kind of like a playground
0:50.0	you know like you end up climbing on a few boulders before you even get to your project.
0:55.2	Totally.
0:56.7	Totally.
0:57.6	You get stuck in that.
0:59.1	That's kind of been the main shift for me this year.
1:02.4	This is my fourth time here.
1:04.6	And I feel way more focused this year.
1:07.2	I feel like I've scratched my itch spending so much time here in the past few years.
1:11.5	And this time I'm like, I just really want to focus on the hard things for me that I really want to do.
1:17.2	And I feel a lot less tempted by all those like random side projects, you know, that can kind of derail your, your, your climbing day.
1:25.0	So yeah, that's been a cool shift.
1:27.6	Yeah, good. Good. I mean, it's been a cool shift. Yeah, good.
	...

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