EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 29 January 2024

⏱️ 99 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, my friends and welcome to the Nugget climbing podcast. This is your host, Stephen
0:07.6	Dimmitt, and my guest today is Yaakup Schubert. This guy is one of the greatest climbers
0:14.6	alive today. There's no doubt about it. Yacup is a professional climber from Austria. He
0:20.0	specializes in competition climbing,
0:22.4	sport climbing, and bouldering. This guy has such an impressive competition resume. He's won the most
0:29.7	men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber ever. He is an Olympic medalist. He got
0:36.7	bronze at the Tokyo Olympics. He's a six-time world
0:40.3	champion. He's won the world championships four different years. Two of those years, he doubled up in
0:44.6	lead and in the combined. And he's also climbed some of the hardest rock climbs in the world,
0:51.2	unsurprisingly. A lot of climbers are saying that 2003 belonged to Jakub Schubert. This guy had an amazing year last year.
1:00.3	He was the double world champion. He won in lead and in combined, which
1:05.0	qualified him for the Paris Olympics, so we will be seeing him compete again in
1:08.9	Paris. He climbed his first 9c sport route this year,
1:13.2	515D. It's insane. One of the hardest routes in the world with his first descent of BIG in
1:19.5	Flatanger in Norway. And then he wrapped up the year by sending his first 9A boulder, V17, his hardest
1:26.5	boulder, with Alphane right before the end of the year.
1:29.3	So, 2003 was his best year, an absolutely incredible year, one of the greatest years that's
1:34.2	ever happened to rock climbing.
1:35.7	And it was really fun to talk with him about it.
1:38.9	We really dove in to all of the parts of his year.
1:43.1	We talked about BIG quite a lot. We talked about Alphane.
1:46.2	We also talked about one of his biggest failures. This guy hasn't had very many failures,
	...

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