EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 22 January 2024

⏱️ 164 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello friends. Welcome to the Nugget Climbing podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimmit. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast today. I've had Tyler on several times. Our first episode was way back in 2001, I believe, episode 79. We've done a couple follow-ups as well, which are available on Patreon if you want to go listen to those.
0:22.5	And this was another great episode.
0:24.8	I stopped through Salt Lake City on my way to Boulder, Colorado right before the holidays and hung out with Tyler.
0:32.0	I went and visited his shop.
0:33.4	We actually had a climbing session together.
0:35.6	I copied his warm-up, and that was fascinating.
0:38.6	We talked about that in this episode and why he warms up the way he does.
0:42.4	Some of the stuff that we did was brand new to me.
0:45.0	And then we had a bouldering session on his wall.
0:48.5	It was super fun.
0:49.2	We had a lot of stuff to talk about in this interview.
0:52.2	Some of it was clarification about finger strength and some of
0:55.7	your questions. Some of you guys were confused after our last follow-up episodes. We talked about that.
1:02.4	And some of this stuff is confusing and just hard to describe on a podcast, but I really tried to
1:09.1	focus on takeaways in this conversation.
1:13.1	What do we actually do?
1:14.5	What does all this stuff mean?
1:16.1	What are the best ways to get strong fingers?
1:18.2	How should we train our fingers if we're climbing all the time so that we don't overdo it and get injured?
1:22.9	What are some of the main causes of finger injuries and other climbing injuries and how do we
1:28.0	avoid those? We talked about the difference between calisthenics versus strength training and
1:34.0	how to get stronger effectively. We talked about why climbers shouldn't train like gymnasts.
	...

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