meta_pixel
Tapesearch Logo
Log in
Climbing Gold

John Bachar: The Interview

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 5 September 2025

⏱️ 62 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

John Bachar may have been the Stonemasters brightest star. His audacious free climbs and even more audacious free solos turned heads around the globe. Sadly, John fell while free soloing in 2009. Last winter, longtime climber and author Mark Kroese approached us with a tape marked Bachar, a remnant of the research he did for his book Fifty Favorite Climbs. Time to hit play.   Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Check out Summit Series at thenorthface.com  Kodiak Cakes Find Kodiak products at your local grocery store, they're the ones with the bear on the box or learn more at Kodiakcakes.com AG1 AG1 is offering new subscribers a FREE $76 gift when you sign up. You’ll get a Welcome Kit that includes 5 AG1 travel packs, a shaker and canister in your first box. DrinkAG1.com/climbinggold  LMNT  Get your free LMNT Sample Pack with any purchase at www.drinklmnt.com/climbinggold. Try the new LMNT Sparkling — a bold, 16-ounce can of sparkling electrolyte water.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Okay, Alex, who do you think the greatest free soloists of all time are? Oh, it's how many am I allowed to list? It just totally depends on the criteria. I mean... I don't know. How many are there? I don't know. Well, there aren't that many, but I mean, to me, the names that come to mind are Peter Croft and John Backer, but that's partially just where I grew up and, you know, what I was inspired by. I mean, obviously, somebody like Alex Hoover is sold at 14A, so, you know, his name certainly belongs on a list of great solists. Then you have somebody like Henry Barber from the previous generation who also was an incredible soloist. And then tons of other people doing things in the mountains. But I think for me

0:37.6

personally, it's Peter Croft and John Backer. Here's Peter. You know, seeing John Backer solo is just

0:44.0

kind of like, it was just, he was glued to the rock. It was just, it was so incredibly smooth.

0:49.2

It was so far away from any kind of daredevil thing. As far as like of the historic things that John Backer did soloing in Yosemite, when I repeated those,

1:00.0

I just felt like I was on hallowed ground.

1:03.0

For the Stone Masters, soloing could almost be like a shared tradition, like something that

1:09.0

people would do after a day of climbing where they would

1:11.1

gather around the Joshua Tree formations and swap laps. It was not always an intensely personal

1:17.3

experience. It was something that sometimes got shared. And it was typically like single

1:20.8

pitches that were pretty hard. Through time, John Backer with his flowing golden locks and

1:26.1

Hollywood physique rose to be a legend that took

1:30.0

free-souling off the deck, unlocking some of the smaller walls in Yosemite, like the Nabisco

1:35.0

Wall and Arch Rock.

1:36.8

He once posted a note to the Camp Four bulletin board saying $10,000 to anyone who can follow

1:41.3

me for a full day.

1:42.5

He earned the nickname Mr. Narelko after the shaving company hired him as spokesperson. Close shave. Get it. That's so bad. And he pre-sold at 512 in Josh Retreat for the 1980s show. That's incredible. He also had the confidence to on-size solo of roots like the moratorium. Which I think is nuts. No, Onside Soling the Mortarium is psycho.

2:01.3

But I think that is something that he barely got away with.

2:03.4

And I think he also sort of, you know, yeah, realized that that was beyond what he should have done.

2:10.0

But, you know, everybody makes mistakes every once in a while.

2:12.3

That's true.

2:12.6

I kind of think he thought of that one as a bit of a mistake.

2:15.3

But he did send.

...

Please login to see the full transcript.

Disclaimer: The podcast and artwork embedded on this page are from Duct Tape Then Beer, and are the property of its owner and not affiliated with or endorsed by Tapesearch.

Generated transcripts are the property of Duct Tape Then Beer and are distributed freely under the Fair Use doctrine. Transcripts generated by Tapesearch are not guaranteed to be accurate.

Copyright © Tapesearch 2025.