Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.2 • 576 Ratings

🗓️ 31 August 2022

⏱️ 30 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hey friends, Stephen here. I've got another follow-up episode for you today. And for those of you who are new to the podcast or new to follow-ups, these are bonus episodes that I put out for patrons who support the show at patreon.com slash the nugget climbing. There's a link right there in your podcast app if you want to learn more.
0:22.6	My follow up today is with Jonathan Seagrist. This is actually his fourth time on the podcast.
0:28.6	I put the list of other episodes he's been on right there in the episode description for this short teaser.
0:36.2	I'm going to give you about 20 to 25 minutes of our conversation
0:39.4	for free right here in this teaser. And the full thing, it's basically a full-length episode with
0:45.4	Jonathan, an hour and 32 minutes. That's available right now for patrons. So you can go to
0:51.3	patreon.com and sign up and listen to the full episode right now.
0:56.2	But yeah, this is my fourth time having Jonathan on the show. It's always so much fun to talk to this guy.
1:00.9	He's so easy to talk to. He's so thoughtful about everything he does when it comes to his
1:06.6	sport climbing, projecting, red pointing, training, etc. I mean, this guy is the best sport
1:14.1	climber in America and definitely one of the best sport climbers in the world. He's got the
1:18.0	resume to prove it. And he's on fire this year. He's 36 years old. He's having the best year of
1:24.7	his life as far as climbing goes and sending hard things.
1:28.5	And it was super cool to catch up with him and compare what we talked about two years ago to what his approach looks like today.
1:35.0	We talked about some of his training and how that has evolved.
1:37.9	He's doing a lot of training on his home wall, just doing hard boulder problems on the home wall these days.
1:43.2	We talked about his philosophy with that
1:44.6	we talked about the 50-50 rule that he likes to have for projecting versus trying to send things
1:51.3	that he can do quickly we talked about how to train for really sustained sport climbing where there's
1:57.9	long crux sections of 20 to 30 hard moves in a row. That was super helpful.
2:03.4	That's something I really struggle with. And he had some really great ideas for how I could
2:07.7	train that and for how others can train for that if they struggle with that sort of thing.
	...

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