EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.2 • 576 Ratings

🗓️ 29 August 2022

⏱️ 155 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.

Transcript

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0:00.0	This episode is brought to you by Fizzy Vantage, now the official climbing nutrition sponsor of the Nugget Climbing podcast.
0:09.8	Fizzy Vantage is the leading brand in climbing nutrition, and just to name a few names, their pro-athlete team includes Matt Fultz, Paige Classen, Drew Ruana, Jonathan Segrist, Natalia Grossman, Malina Kostanza,
0:22.7	Brittany Gores, Jordan Cannon, Katie Lambert, Jimmy Webb, and Daniel Woods. The list goes on and on,
0:29.0	basically, the who's who of high-performance rock climbing. They're all using Fizzy Vantage products.
0:34.4	I personally love the supercharged collagen. I am obsessed with getting my fingers stronger,
0:39.6	and I want to make sure that I'm giving my body all the building blocks it needs to make
0:43.6	stronger tendons. If you would like to feel the Fizzy Vantage yourself, head over to FizzyVantage.com
0:49.7	and use code Nugget 15 at checkout to save 15% off any full-priced nutrition product.
0:56.7	That's FizzyVantage.com.
0:58.5	Use code Nugget 15 at checkout to save 15% off your order.
1:02.8	This episode is also brought to you by crimped.
1:05.1	This might be the best tool in the app store when it comes to training for rock climbing.
1:12.8	Here's the deal. The crimped app gives you access to 75 different workouts created by world class climbers and coaches Tom Randall and
1:19.0	Ollie Tor of Laddus training for free. So you can download the app right now, try it out for free,
1:25.5	and see if you like it. And if you want even more training
1:28.7	power, consider signing up for crimped Plus. Krimp Plus unlocks three main things. First,
1:34.8	instead of 75 workouts you get with a free version, you will have access to over 200 workouts and
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1:51.7	bootstrap your training and focus on specific areas of improvement. For example, if you want to
1:56.2	improve your finger strength or your flexibility or conquer one arm pull-ups. Well, guess what? There's a skill
2:01.8	template for each of those things and many more that will guide you through the process. So check
	...

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