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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Project, The Nugget, Lattice Training, Alpine Climbing, Climbing, Sports, Climbing Nugget, Self-improvement, Sport Climbing, Rock Climbing, Smith Rock, Careless, The Nugget Climbing Podcast, Bouldering, Gold, Dirtbag State Of Mind, Thenuggetclimbing, Fitness, Training Beta, Wilderness, Runout, Nuggetclimbing, Steven Dimmitt, Steven Dimmit, Training, Nugget Podcast, Climbing History, American, Nugget, The, Nugget Climbing Podcast, The Climbing Nugget, Struggle, Climbing Podcast, The American Climbing Project, The Nugget Climbing, Climbing Gold, Climb, Power Company, Yosemite, Enormocast, Health & Fitness, Lattice, @Thenuggetclimbing, Climber, Dirtbag Diaries, Alex Honnold, Climbing Training, Testpiece, The Struggle Climbing Show, Education, Trad Climbing, Talk, The Struggle, For The Love Of Climbing, Training For Climbing, Dirtbag, Sharp End, Nugget Climbing

4.0589 Ratings

🗓️ 23 March 2023

⏱️ 40 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:06:03. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Emil’s Original Episode: EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021)

Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello, friends. Welcome to another episode of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. This is your host, Stephen

0:07.7

Dimit. And today's episode is a bonus episode available for patrons who support the Nugget for

0:14.8

$5 per month or more. For those of you who are new to the podcast, welcome. It's great to have you here.

0:21.6

And if you don't know what these follow-ups are, from time to time, I like to go back and have some of my

0:25.8

favorite guests back on the show. So I've already interviewed Emil, his first episode, I believe

0:32.0

is episode 85. I highly recommend that one if you haven't listened to it. And in these follow episodes, I have

0:38.9

the guests back on, in this case, Emil, and talk about what they've been up to since our first

0:44.0

conversation. And usually I try to time it with a big send of theirs or try to make it more

0:50.3

topical and do a deep dive on a geeky topic that the climbing geeks you guys that

0:55.6

love these geeky episodes will enjoy like the training stuff we might go deeper into finger

1:00.4

training for example but the timing of this episode was great because emil is totally crushing

1:07.6

right now he just sent his first v15 back back in January, I believe, with the story of

1:13.6

two worlds in Switzerland. That's a super famous rock climb. It looks incredible. And the guy did it.

1:21.0

Emile is a guy who started climbing relatively late in life at 16 years old. He's had this goal

1:26.9

of climbing V-15 for a long,

1:29.8

long time. We talked about that in our first episode. And the guy freaking did the thing.

1:34.3

It's so, so impressive to see how far he's come in his climbing in the last few years.

1:40.4

This was a really fascinating episode because Emil tried a totally different strategy in his last

1:46.5

season of training this past fall, which led to him climbing his first V-15 and feeling stronger

1:52.7

than ever on some other boulders that he tried. He actually gained 15 pounds, six and a half kilos of

1:59.9

body weight over the course of the fall season while he was training,

2:03.7

then went to Switzerland and climbed his hardest ever Boulder problem, which is so cool and

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