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Lost Debate

Fear, Surfing, and Writing with William Finnegan

Lost Debate

The Branch

News, Society & Culture, Politics

4.6607 Ratings

🗓️ 1 May 2025

⏱️ 58 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist and surfer William Finnegan joins Ravi for a wide-ranging conversation on surfing, storytelling, and the pursuit of mastery. They unpack Barbarian Days and how a lifetime of chasing waves has shaped Bill’s understanding of fear, discipline, and identity. They then turn to the tension between purity and accessibility in surfing and how innovations like wave pools can reflect broader social shifts. They also dig into what it means to be an adult learner in a youth-dominated sport and whether surfing’s soul can survive its growing commercialization.  Bill and Ravi then turn to Bill’s storied career at The New Yorker and discuss the evolving economics of journalism and the practical realities of building a writing life in today’s digital world. They explore how a new generation of writers and athletes, who’ve never seen the world before the internet, can still find meaning off the beaten path. Finally, they reflect on what it means to fully commit to a craft. Leave us a voicemail with your thoughts on the show! 321-200-0570 Learn more about Ravi's novel and upcoming events: GARBAGE TOWN --- Follow Ravi at @ravimgupta Follow The Branch at @thebranchmedia Notes from this episode are available on Substack: https://thelostdebate.substack.com/ Lost Debate is available on the following platforms:  • Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-lost-debate/id1591300785 • Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/7xR9pch9DrQDiZfGB5oF0F • YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@LostDebate • Google: https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vTERJNTc1ODE3Mzk3Nw  • iHeart: https://www.iheart.com/podcast/269-the-lost-debate-88330217/ • Amazon Music: https://music.amazon.co.uk/podcasts/752ca262-2801-466d-9654-2024de72bd1f/the-lost-debate

Transcript

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0:00.0

Welcome to The Last Debate, a show for Politically Ecclectics. I'm Robbie Gupta. And today I talk to somebody I've wanted to talk to for a very, very long time. I'm talking to William Finnegan, Bill Finnegan, who has been a contributor to the New Yorker since 1984 and a staff writer since 1987. He has reported on everything from, you know, current events in Africa, Central America,

0:23.6

South America, Europe, the Balkans, Mexico, Australia, even the U.S. He twice received the John

0:28.8

Bartlow Martin Award for Public Interest Magazine Journalism and twice has been a National

0:33.7

Magazine Award finalist. He is probably most well known these days for a book he wrote in 2016 called Barbarian Days,

0:42.0

for which he won the Pulitzer Prize for Biography.

0:44.9

And that book is all about Bill's journey as a surfer growing up many, many years ago,

0:51.8

back when there were a lot of breaks that are famous now, that he was

0:55.6

just, quote, unquote, discovering. I don't want to over, like, you know, that word can mean a lot of

0:59.9

different things. But, you know, he was one of the first Americans, if not the first Americans,

1:04.1

to surf certain waves all around the world. In some cases, probably the first person to surf those

1:09.0

waves that are now world's famous.

1:16.8

He has written about the interplay between his surfing and his journalism, and he has profiled some of the biggest names in surfing, including names that we'll talk about here, like

1:21.2

Kyle Lenny, Jock Sutherland, and Kelly Slater.

1:25.0

We talk about mostly surfing.

1:27.2

So if you're not interested in hearing people

1:28.8

geek out on surfing, you might want to skip this one. But what you will hear is me as a,

1:34.1

you know, relatively newbie to the sport, you know, maybe six years running now to somebody who's

1:38.8

been doing it for, you know, way, way longer than I've lived, almost twice as long as I've lived.

1:46.4

And I just ask them a lot of questions that, like, a lot of people I know who are interested in surfing would

1:50.5

ask. And then at the end, I start to open up and ask more about journalism generally, because I think

1:55.2

Bill represents a generation of journalists at places like the New Yorker that I and I and a lot of people in my generation

2:02.5

really look up to and try to model ourselves off of. So yeah, heavy, heavy on the surfing.

...

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