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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.2576 Ratings

🗓️ 6 October 2025

⏱️ 85 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering the benefits of seasonality for maximizing climbing performance, rehabbing and preventing common knee injuries while heel hooking, and off-the-wall strength training for climbers.

Transcript

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0:00.0

Hey friends, I've got some huge news before we dive into today's episode. We just launched

0:06.8

the Nugget Training app. We've been working on this project all year long, and I'm beyond

0:12.4

excited to finally share it with you. You know me. I only make things if it's exactly what I want

0:18.4

to use for my training. I was tired of keeping track of notebooks and

0:22.1

spreadsheets and notes on my phone. I wanted everything in one place. And I wanted to create the

0:27.2

ultimate hub for every single training protocol that I've talked about with every single one of my

0:32.6

guests on the podcast. Instead of making you go back and re-listen to old episodes from two or three years

0:38.7

ago, all of the sessions that you want to try will be in one place. That's exactly what we're

0:44.5

building. Right now, the Grinds program is live. That's my finger training program. I've seen

0:50.6

incredible results from it over the last two years. Hundreds of podcast listeners have tried it and had success with it as well.

0:57.6

You'll get guided sessions that show you exactly what to do and you'll be able to track your

1:01.4

progress.

1:02.2

We've added all of our go-to bouldering workouts plus finger health sessions like the 25-pound

1:07.8

warm-up, no hangs, and the three-minute cooldown that I learned from Dr. Keith

1:12.8

Barr. I've tried other training apps, and I know how frustrating it can be when the sessions

1:18.7

in the app don't fit exactly what you want to do. So with the Nugget training app, we offer our

1:25.6

proven training sessions that you can follow exactly as is,

1:29.3

or you can tweak and customize every single one of our sessions if you have your own favorite

1:35.4

way of training. It's simple and easy to use, and this is just the beginning. Head over to

1:41.4

training.tthenuggetclimbing.com for a free finger strength testing

1:46.2

session and we'll send you a customized report so you can see how your finger strength

1:50.9

stacks up against other climbers who climb at similar grades. Link in the episode description

...

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