EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 22 April 2024

⏱️ 137 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast.
0:05.9	This is your host, Stephen Dimmit.
0:08.4	My guest today is Nathan Williams, Nate underscore Williams-01, on Instagram.
0:14.2	He's got a second account that you guys should definitely check out.
0:17.2	It is lock.offer on Instagram.
0:19.9	That is where Nathan shares a lot of his feats of strength
0:23.6	and climbing shenanigans, static shenanigans. This guy is known for his really unique climbing style.
0:29.5	He has one of the most static, locked in, slow, controlled climbing styles I've ever seen,
0:35.7	and he's climbing at a really high level. Nathan is fully
0:39.7	obsessed with Return of the Sleepwalker. We talked about that a lot in this episode. He's been trying
0:45.2	it for years now. Estimates he's put a hundred plus days into this boulder. And it was really
0:52.6	beautiful to hear how he talked about it. This guy really is
0:55.5	doing exactly what he loves. He just loves this boulder problem. He really wants to do it. He just
1:01.1	really enjoys trying it. And yeah, he seems to have really pure motivations for his climbing and for
1:07.7	what he's doing. And I really enjoyed talking to him. This was a very laid-back
1:12.2	conversation. Lots of little nuggets kind of sprinkled in throughout. We talked about some of his
1:18.4	projecting tactics and some of the things he's learned from spending so much time on one boulder.
1:23.8	We talked a little bit about his training for return to the sleepwalker.
1:32.2	And specifically, we got into some of his finger training and his one-arm hang workout.
1:35.7	I've talked a lot about hangboarding over the years on this podcast.
1:48.2	And Nathan's protocol that he shares in this episode might be the simplest finger training protocol I've ever heard of. He got insanely strong from doing it.
1:52.9	It's so simple. I'm not going to spoil it here, but I could literally sum it up in one sentence.
	...

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