EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 5 February 2024

⏱️ 165 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast.
0:06.1	This is your host, Stephen Dimit.
0:08.4	And my guest today is Anak Verhoeven.
0:11.4	Anak is a professional climber from Belgium, and she is one of the most accomplished
0:17.2	female sport climbers ever.
0:20.0	Anak had an incredibly successful competition career.
0:23.3	She won the climbing world championships as a junior in 2015.
0:27.3	She won the European Championships as an adult in lead in 2017.
0:32.9	She's won multiple World Cups, and she's been on the podium in World Cups more times than I can count.
0:38.2	Anak announced her retirement from competitions in 2021 to focus on her outdoor rock climbing and for
0:44.8	good reason. She has one of the most impressive sport climbing resumes I can think of. I don't
0:52.3	know if any other woman has climbed more nine A's and harder.
0:55.9	It's really hard to know for sure, but she definitely has one of the most impressive
0:59.5	sport climbing resumes out there. And I really enjoyed talking to her. I really enjoyed this
1:05.3	episode. We talked about everything from her childhood, leading her first route at age four.
1:10.7	We talked about why she quit competitions
1:12.9	and got into a lot of her training. And I think this will be a really inspiring episode for any of you
1:18.8	who don't have amazing facilities to train at. Anak has been able to build some of the best
1:24.8	endurance of any climber in the world with pretty mediocre
1:29.3	training facilities. She gets really creative with her training, and there were a lot of great
1:33.9	nuggets in that part of our conversation. We also talked about her faith. She is very open
1:41.1	about being Christian and talks about that very publicly.
	...

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