EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 12 February 2024

⏱️ 197 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, my friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast.
0:06.0	This is your host, Stephen Dimit.
0:08.5	This is a very fun episode.
0:10.4	My guest today is Adrian Venoni.
0:13.5	Adrian is an up-and-coming sport climber and trad climber and big wall climber from the Pacific
0:19.1	Northwest.
0:19.8	He's based in Washington State, and he's got a ton of energy and psych for climbing.
0:25.6	We had a lot of fun in this conversation.
0:27.4	This one feels like two friends just catching up and talking about their recent sends,
0:32.4	their projects, and things that they want to do.
0:34.6	This was really, really fun.
0:36.8	Adrian has been on a rampage recently.
0:38.5	He sent his first 514 less than two years ago in the summer of 2022. He's sent nine 514s total
0:47.3	since then, including some of the hardest finger cracks in North America, a cobra crack up in
0:52.6	Squamish. He did the first ascent of a 514 finger crack up in
0:57.0	the enchantments in Washington. We talked about that. Prayer for a friend is the name of that route.
1:02.9	He's also a free climbed L. Cap multiple times, including doing the free rider in a day.
1:07.1	If you don't make it all the way through this episode, make sure you listen to his story
1:12.0	about doing the free writer in a day. It's at the very end. You can scroll down in your podcast
1:16.4	app and find the nugget or the timestamp for that story. It's a really epic story. I think
1:23.2	you guys are going to enjoy it. There's definitely a lot of inside baseball in this episode.
1:28.3	Adrian and I geeked out in great detail about some roots at Smith Rock and Little
	...

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