EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 15 January 2024

⏱️ 206 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimett. I'm
0:08.8	honored to have you here. My guest today is James Pearson. James is one of the world's best
0:14.5	trad climbers. I don't think he would ever say that, but it's true. It's really hard to think of
0:19.8	anyone who has a more impressive trad
0:21.7	resume than James. And this was one of my all-time favorite interviews. I really enjoyed talking to
0:28.6	James. I followed his climbing for a long time. He's one of my favorite people out there in the
0:34.0	climbing world. He's just an inspiring guy. He's really insightful and he just keeps
0:39.0	getting better and better at climbing. He's 37. He's climbing the hardest he's ever climbed
0:44.8	in his life with two kids. It's just so cool. I really hope you guys enjoy this one as much as I did.
0:51.1	We did talk a lot about e grades and we really got into the weeds with that.
0:57.1	If you get bogged down by that at all, just scroll down to the timestamps and find the part where
1:01.6	he talks about becoming a dad. I loved what he had to say about that and I thought the last
1:06.0	hour of this podcast was especially good. So be sure not to miss it.
1:12.7	All right, let's dive in.
1:15.0	Please enjoy James Pearson.
1:19.1	Cascas, cast, cast.
1:27.3	No one can do it like we do it, like we do it, like we do it, like we do it, like we do it.
1:29.8	Okay.
1:33.7	That's good. I'd forgotten to unplug the fridge.
1:35.2	Can't have the fridge on.
1:35.8	Oh, yeah.
1:37.6	It makes a lot of noise.
	...

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