EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.2 • 576 Ratings

🗓️ 19 September 2022

⏱️ 143 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.

Transcript

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1:20.4	This episode is also brought to you by Arcterics.
1:23.3	When Jordan Cannon, a young climber infatuated with climbing history, meets climbing legend Mark Hudon, a Yosemite Big Wall Free Climbing Pioneer, they form an unlikely partnership around a common goal.
1:36.4	Jordan wants to free climb the free rider on El Cap in a day, and Mark hopes to free the route in as many days as it takes and accomplish his lifelong goal of
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1:49.5	to you by Arcterics. I watched the film about a month ago. It's 31 minutes long. It's so
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2:02.1	my episode with Jordan Cannon, episode 115, one of my favorites, then I know you'll love
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