From KCRW, I'm Evan Kliman and you're listening to good food.

Sometimes a donut is more than just a donut.

Actually, for those of us who love food and have been reporting on it in some capacity

for years, we know that food is always more than just a bunch of delicious bites.

That's why we were thrilled to see Southern California food. a these Chinese donuts helped save my refugee family which ran in the Los Angeles

Times. Welcome Jean. Hi, thanks for having me. Oh we're so happy and

congratulations. Thank you so much. For our

listeners who may or may not have read your piece can you describe the

crawlers in question they're not the you know Duncan style donuts many

Americans will think of when they hear the word cruller. Yeah so in Mandarin

they go by the name Yotia or in my Chinese dialect of the Aju, they're called

Yu-Chakoi. They go by many, many names, and basically they're more savory rather than sweet donuts.

They're basically these two strips of dough that are stuck together.

And they kind of, when, and then when you deep fry them they sort of look like spread out puffy butterfly wings and so what makes them delicious is that they're you know soft and chewy on the inside kind of airy and on the outside they're soft and chewy on the inside, kind of airy,

and on the outside they're super crispy because they're deep fried.

And they have like a little bit of salt,

but they're actually pretty plain.

And they're enormous.

You feel like you won the lottery when you get one.

They're often the length of a forearm. Yeah, they're really impressive.

Could I ask you to read a paragraph from your essay?

Sure.

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