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Mind Pump: Raw Fitness Truth

1115: The Amazing Adventures of Tommy Caldwell, Star of Netflix's The Dawn Wall

Mind Pump: Raw Fitness Truth

Sal Di Stefano, Adam Schafer, Justin Andrews, Doug Egge

Exercise, Health & Fitness, Health, Fitness

4.811.8K Ratings

🗓️ 9 September 2019

⏱️ 79 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In this episode, Sal, Adam and Justin speak with Tommy Caldwell, star of Netflix's The Dawn Wall. Tommy has had an amazing life filled with adventure and danger from the time he was a small child. Held hostage by rebels in Kyrgyzstan, overcoming a potentially career-ending accident and scaling the Dawn Wall of El Capitan are just of few of the stories he tells in this fascinating interview.

  • How rock climbers are their own filmmakers. (4:40)
  • What has been the impact of Dawn Wall? (8:20)
  • Finding strength in yourself: Tommy’s relationship with his father growing up and how he inherited his ‘joyful masochism’ mentality. (9:42)
  • The harrowing hostage situation he experienced while in Kyrgyzstan. (14:15)
  • The moral dilemma he experienced post escaping. (31:20)
  • When we think we are at our breaking point, we are not even close. (33:20)
  • What has the transition been like being in the public spotlight? (38:00)
  • The liberating feeling of taking away all expectations. The potentially career-ending accident he overcame. (39:00)
  • The differences between ‘big free wall’ climbing vs. regular rock climbing. (43:12)
  • How climbing a ‘big wall’ is like learning a second language. (45:30)
  • The adventure of a lifetime: His 7-year journey to ‘summit’ the Dawn Wall. (47:00)
  • Being addicted to the stimulus. (51:14)
  • The camaraderie amongst the climbing community. (52:29)
  • Does he find normal life boring? (56:20)
  • The different levels of ‘flow state’. (57:15)
  • The dangers and performance level attributes associated with climbing. (59:05)
  • The 3 climbing disciplines that will be in the 2020 Olympics. (1:03:35)
  • How does a climber survive financially? (1:05:30)
  • The bill and ‘becoming the messenger’ to protect the Arctic from drilling. (1:08:58)
  • The meaning behind his new film, Reel Rock 14. (1:11:56)
  • How did Netflix get ahold of The Dawn Wall? (1:14:12)

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Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

If you want to pump your body and expand your mind, there's only one place to go.

0:06.0

Mite, op, mite, op with your hosts.

0:09.0

Salda Stefano, Adam Schaefer, and Justin Andrews.

0:13.0

I remember when I first watched Donwall, blew my mind.

0:19.0

Tommy Caldwell probably has one of the craziest stories it's insane.

0:23.0

In any sport, I mean, this guy's stories are insane from how he was raised with his dad to

0:29.0

what happened to him in what country was that that it was in?

0:32.0

Who's best dad?

0:33.0

No, or Kyrgyzstan.

0:34.0

Kyrgyzstan.

0:35.0

Yeah.

0:36.0

That was crazy.

0:37.0

And then of course, how he almost ended his rock climbing career.

0:42.0

And then that he became the first person ever to climb the smooth side of El Capitan.

0:48.0

Insane story.

0:50.0

I mean, he's for sure one of the guys responsible for really putting rock climbing on the map for the average person.

0:57.0

I don't know, I don't know anybody that was talking about rock climbing before, you know,

1:03.0

Valley up rising solo.

1:05.0

I think Maru's the other one and then Donwall.

1:08.0

All those documentaries came out like within a year or two of each other.

1:13.0

And just, and he taught me talks about this.

1:16.0

Like, they didn't realize, no one realized the popularity of it.

...

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