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Business Daily

What next after India's sandal scandal?

Business Daily

BBC

News, Business

4.4796 Ratings

🗓️ 28 July 2025

⏱️ 17 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

When Italian luxury brand Prada showcased leather sandals that looked a lot like India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals, and didn't credit their roots, it sparked a debate over fair pay and recognition for local artisans.

The company has since tried to make amends and has been speaking to local producers.

We travel to Kolhapur, where these sandals are made to explore what this example means for the economics of luxury fashion.

Presenter: Devina Gupta Producer: Andrew Clarence

(Image: A shopkeeper shows a pair of Kolhapuri chappals displayed for sale at a street side shop in Maharashtra, India. Credit: Getty Images)

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Hello and Namaste. Welcome to Business Daily from the BBC World Service. I'm Divina Gpta in India.

0:09.2

Today, what happens when global brands borrow from local traditions? To answer that question,

0:15.6

we head to Western Indian City of Kolapur, which is in the global spotlight after a fashion controversy.

0:22.9

In June, Prada showcased a pair of sleek leather sandals in its Milan fashion show that bore a striking

0:29.6

resemblance to slippers made in this city. They are called Kolapuri Chapples.

0:35.5

At first, the brand failed to credit the sandals' Indian roots, triggering a backlash in India.

0:41.7

Well, I think it just reflects that branding over craftsmanship, you know, that's the mindset globally.

0:47.7

So I think it's time to Indians claim our heritage.

0:51.3

Braada has tried to make amends.

0:53.3

But it's not the first time a big fashion brand has used

0:57.0

local artisans ideas.

0:59.0

Even today for artisans, it is a matter of survival first and then a matter of a pride

1:05.0

that, you know, somebody is stealing my design.

1:07.0

So we need to move them above the stage of survival.

1:11.6

The economics of luxury, fashion.

1:14.6

That's all coming up in today's Business Daily.

1:21.6

I'm in a cramped, dimly lit workshop in Kolapur.

1:26.6

As I walk around to my right, there's a stack of freshly made

1:31.1

leather sandals wrapped in a plastic sheet. In front of me, there are artisans who are sitting on the

1:38.4

concrete floor. There are bits of threads, tools that are scattered around them, and they're all working in a rhythmic motion.

1:48.5

It's like a choreography where they are cutting and stitching and shaping large sheets of leather in small sandals.

2:00.2

These sandals are made of buffalo skin. say Sadashif Sanake as he cuts a big sheet of

...

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