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Climbing Gold

Walking Away

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Wilderness, Sports

4.9983 Ratings

🗓️ 1 July 2022

⏱️ 42 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

We’ve spent this season trying to better understand the risks climbers take, but we had one last question. How do you walk away? Steve House gave his entire attention and focus to alpinism. He was an iconic figure who seemed poised to finish out a career as a sponsored athlete. Then in April of 2021, Steve announced that he was done with elite climbing, embarking on a new chapter of life. Learn more about Steve's work at Uphill Athlete.

Transcript

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0:00.0

We get to have a dad conversation?

0:05.8

I'm excited about that.

0:07.8

I have already thought several times that it reminds me a lot of alpinism.

0:12.7

Like especially the breastfeeding during the night when you're just waking up at random times

0:15.5

and you feel totally busted, but you just roll out of bed anyway to like do the thing that you have to do.

0:20.3

And like every time I run out to the freezer in the kitchen in my underwear and it's all cold in the house and you're you know and it's like two in the morning and stargum using that lamp all like ah

0:28.6

I was like this this is what years of waking up an attempt prepare you for. Yeah totally it's all it's all pretty hardcore. I'm like, oh, parenting.

0:40.3

It's like, it's hard to believe that everybody does this.

0:43.9

Like, geez, it's so, and this is where we all came from, right? It gives you a more appreciation for your mother and father.

0:47.7

No, yeah, it really does.

0:49.4

I've never thought they were that badass, but now I'm like, man, they must have gone

0:53.1

through a lot.

0:54.6

Cool. Should we actually start the real interview? I'm sort of like, like, who wants to talk

0:58.6

about alpinism and climbing when we could talk about dadding? My name is Steve House. I'm originally

1:03.7

from northeastern Oregon, a little ranching in cattle town called the Grand. When I was 11, I did my first single push ascent where I went to school, played a baseball

1:16.4

game after school.

1:17.7

We drove down to Mount Hood and we started climbing Mount Hood at midnight and got to the summit

1:22.4

off for the sunrise.

1:24.2

I was exhausted.

1:25.7

I was like, oh yeah, I'll just start glissading down here on the Palmer

1:30.2

glacier. And it's a little bit steep, but I thought that I could stop, but I actually couldn't. And so

1:36.5

I tried to self-arrest, and I couldn't self-arrest, and I actually lost my ice axe. And then,

...

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