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Food with Mark Bittman

Tom Colicchio Still Loves to Cook

Food with Mark Bittman

Sweetness and Light

Nutrition, Arts, Society & Culture, Health & Fitness, Food, Culture, Cooking

4.8981 Ratings

🗓️ 11 February 2026

⏱️ 28 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

The chef and activist talks to Kate and Mark about why, for the first time in 25 years, he's overhauling the menu at Craft; what makes a restaurant popular (even when it's not good); where all the good cooks have gone; and why he dislikes sous vide so much. Plus: some great cooking tips.


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Transcript

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0:00.0

Welcome to Food with Mark Bitman. I'm Kate Bitman. Thanks for being here. We know how many of you are loyal listeners and we appreciate that so much. If you'd like to hear more from Mark and me and our small but mighty team, check us out on bitmanproject.com. When you subscribe there, you'll get access to our recipe database, which now has thousands of recipes, with more added weekly.

0:27.1

If you prefer a substack experience, we're on there, too, bitmanproject.substack.com.

0:33.7

Reach out to us with any questions, comments, or stuff you think should be featured on the podcast or on our site, food at markbitman.com. Greetings, friends.

1:00.5

Back in the day, I was friends with a number of chefs,

1:04.0

and one relationship that's lasted is that with Tom Colicchio.

1:08.5

This isn't only because he's a great chef in the sense of cook and restaurateur, although he is.

1:14.9

And Kraft, which we're going to talk about, and is now celebrating its 25th anniversary,

1:20.7

was and remains important and influential.

1:23.8

But it's also because Tom, like me, became more political and outspoken about food in general as the years went by.

1:32.2

And given his somewhat exalted position as top chef's head judge, that wasn't without risks.

1:39.1

But he saw what needed to be done, and he did it.

1:43.5

Tom was one of the first guests on our podcast back in 2021, almost five years ago now.

1:49.3

He's won eight James Beard Awards, which has to be more than anyone, right?

1:53.7

And he's total fun.

1:55.5

Here we go.

1:57.3

My question is, with the 25th anniversary of Kraft, where the fuck did that quarter century go?

2:03.2

Right. Yeah. Yeah. I was 12 when we start this restaurant.

2:07.8

Yeah.

2:08.8

Oh, man. I don't know. I was there in opening week, I'm sure. flew by i don't know 25 years kind of crazy well

2:20.4

it was a great restaurant when it opened it was kind of a game changer in its presentation

2:28.7

and its menu and its attitude um the times called it nearly flawless, which, you know, that's not bad.

2:39.5

And so now you're overhauling the menu to center around what you're excited to cook today

...

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