From KCRW and KCRW.com, I'm Bob Carlson, and this is unfictional.

You are truly left alone with your own thoughts.

After a while, your left brain doesn't function anymore. You're over in your

dream state, right brain and it's kind of like you are watching yourself dream.

Unfictional is a program of odd stories. You're watching yourself dream.

Unfictional is a program of odd stories and compelling documentaries.

And today an episode about the ocean.

What does that mean?

The ocean is vast, the ocean is huge, it's deep, it's filled with life, it's most of the planet.

And as we've been reminded recently, it can be threatening and overwhelming. It can kill us.

But still, we human beings are naturally drawn to it.

It relaxes us, inspires us, and scares us. We have an uneasy relationship with the ocean, but despite the dangers,

despite the vast size, despite the very unknowingness of the ocean, and probably because of of it we want to go back in.

Look at surfers for example.

Surfers have made something of a religion around being in the ocean.

No one dances with the power and the danger of the ocean like a

surfer. My name is Greg Rochelle. I'm president of the Black Surfing Association.

Surfers get to see a side of the ocean, of a wave, but others can't.

And when it happens just right, it's so amazing that you never forget it.

I do remember the first time I got in the tube on a wave, yeah.

It's the tube, the barrel, the shack, the green room, the keg, the pit, the womb.

It's one of the coolest things you can do in surfing.

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