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99% Invisible

The White Elephant Of Tel Aviv

99% Invisible

SiriusXM Podcasts and Roman Mars

Arts, Design

4.828.1K Ratings

🗓️ 30 March 2016

⏱️ 35 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Israeli buses regularly make international headlines, be it for suicide bombings, fights over gender segregation, or clashes concerning Shabbat schedules. One particular ill-fated megastructure, however, has been at the nexus of various lesser-publiciz...

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

This is 99% invisible. I'm Roman Mars.

0:04.0

By all accounts, if you've ever taken a bus to or from Tel Aviv's new central bus station, you've never forgotten the experience.

0:14.8

It's one of the most bizarre and magical and disgusting and enchanting places you can

0:20.3

imagine. This is Michie Harmon of the radio show and podcast Israel Story talking

0:24.8

about the unforgettable ramshackle, massive bus station known as the city under a roof.

0:30.6

It's dirty and smelly and feels depressing deserted, but at the same time it's

0:35.8

colourful and full of life. The station houses vendors, foreign workers and refugees

0:41.6

from all over the world.

0:43.0

Philippines, Europe.

0:45.0

Greece, South Sudan.

0:47.0

Eritrea.

0:48.0

China. Morocco, Brazilian.

0:50.0

On the fourth floor in what's called Manila Avenue, you can stuff yourself with homemade pan-fried

0:55.4

lumpia that Filipino caregivers sell on their day off.

0:59.7

If you turn the corner, an old-timer might drag you into the Netzathavid synagogue, after which you can meander past

1:05.8

tattoo parlors, churches, the free STD clinic, Eritrean brides getting their hair braided,

1:11.2

the Israeli Filipino matchmaking agency,

1:13.8

fringe theater spaces, and end up at a giant Yiddish book library.

1:19.5

For about 20 years until the year 2010,

1:22.4

Tel Aviv's new central bus station was the largest in the world.

1:26.0

This isn't a city whose population just barely reached 400,000 people during this time.

1:31.4

The bus station is dizzying. In fact, it's almost impossible not to get lost there.

...

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