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The Food Programme

The Low-Alcohol Drinks Revolution: Can Wine Keep Up?

The Food Programme

BBC

Arts, Food

4.4 • 976 Ratings

🗓️ 30 January 2026

⏱️ 43 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

One thing that could make us all healthier is drinking less alcohol – and there’s now a huge market for alcohol‑free drinks. But one category that has long struggled to deliver great taste is non‑alcoholic wine. In this episode Jaega Wise looks to find out why it’s so difficult to make a wine without alcohol that still tastes good, and asks what difference these drinks can make to people trying to cut back.

Jaega begins the story of German producer Bernhard Jung, whose family pioneered vacuum distillation more than a century ago. She meets Fiona Graham and Alex Viol of Vino Zero along with wine expert Jane Rakison to taste some of today’s most promising alcohol‑free bottles, and speaks to David Hodgson of Zeno Wines about the challenges behind creating convincing 0% options. At Plumpton College, master’s student George Coles and programme manager James Clapham explain how future winemakers are experimenting with new approaches.

During the programme, Jaega also brings together Professor John Holmes of the University of Sheffield and Richard Piper from Alcohol Change UK to explore how no‑ and low‑alcohol drinks might influence our drinking habits. And with Tom Ward of Wise Bartender, she looks at the growing world of mid‑strength wine - a category some believe could be the next step in helping people drink differently.

Presented by Jaega Wise Produced in Bristol for BBC Audio by Natalie Donovan

Transcript

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0:00.0

BBC Sounds, Music, Radio Podcasts.

0:05.7

Hello, you're about to listen to a BBC podcast, and I'm Ed Gamble, host of another BBC podcast, The Traitors Uncloaked.

0:12.7

But my show is available only on BBC Sounds, just like Ellis and John's Saturday bonus episodes,

0:18.2

The Pop Top Ten podcast with Scott Mills and Rylan, and comedy specials

0:22.2

from the likes of Harriet Kemsley, Susie Ruffel and Rommashranganathan.

0:26.0

However, and maybe I'm biased, it's really all about the traitors uncoaked.

0:30.3

So for a whole bunch of exclusive scoops and podcasts, listen only on BBC Sounds.

0:39.0

Compared with, say, beer or spirits, the NOLO versions of,

0:43.6

wine is much more in its sort of embryonic stage

0:48.1

in terms of what's acceptable for critics, for customers. No Loan Wines are just so much further away from

0:57.4

beers and spirits, equivalents. They're nowhere near as advanced or as sophisticated to me,

1:03.5

in general, as spirits and beers. That's Jane Rackison, writer, broadcaster, and someone who has one of the most trusted palettes in the country.

1:14.6

Jane discovered wine at university in France and has gone on to taste with some of the biggest wine brains around.

1:22.2

These days she lived in Somerset with her family, still judging, still writing, and lately, like so many of us working

1:29.1

in the drinks industry, she's been watching how fast people are trying to drink less and how

1:34.5

slowly alcohol-free wine seems to be keeping up. I know when I was pregnant, I didn't really

1:40.4

reach for any no-low wines. I reached for no-low beer. But then no-low beer, you know,

1:46.6

it's starting from a much lower alcohol point to start, so you're not stripping it out. Alcohol

1:52.3

doesn't just bring booze to the party. The alcohol brings warmth and bitterness and texture

1:59.7

and body together with the fruit flavours, the acidity, the tannins.

2:05.3

That's what makes wine beautiful.

2:07.5

And when you remove alcohol, even if you do it the most gentle way possible, you're still going to lose some of those elements that make it gorgeous.

...

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