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What you're thinking about when you drive towards Ersan

is the fact that it's in the front line, right?

Dan Saber is the Guardian's defense and security correspondent.

He's on his way to Ersan, a city the Ukrainian army recaptured in November.

And since then, still one of the most dangerous parts of the country.

It's one of the hardest hit cities in Ukraine.

It usually gets hit multiple times with shells and other missiles during the day.

As he pulls into the city, he sees the familiar scars of war.

But this time, he's here to witness a different catastrophe.

The town was also really, really quiet, notably quiet.

Ersan was deserted and it was eerie.

...