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Best of the Spectator

Table Talk: Brett Graham

Best of the Spectator

The Spectator

News Commentary, News, Daily News, Society & Culture

4.4785 Ratings

🗓️ 12 August 2025

⏱️ 31 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Brett Graham is the man behind the Michelin-starred The Ledbury in Notting Hill, which is celebrating 20 years this year. He’s also the director of The Harwood Arms in Fulham, London’s only pub with a Michelin star.

 

On the podcast, Brett tells hosts Lara Prendergast and Olivia Potts about why being in the kitchen is like being in the army, what it was like for The Ledbury to receive its third Michelin star and the trials and tribulations of learning food production – including ending up with 127 piglets.

Transcript

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0:00.0

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0:05.9

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0:10.8

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0:17.0

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0:22.1

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0:24.4

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0:27.0

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0:29.8

See delivery.com.uk.

0:31.1

Okay.

0:31.1

Okay.

0:31.2

Hello and welcome to Table Talk, the Spectators Food and Drink podcast. I'm Olivia Potts.

0:45.3

And I'm Laura Prendergast. And today we are delighted to be joined by Brett Graham.

0:49.9

Brett is the man behind the three Michelin starred, The Ledbury, in Notting Hill, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. He's also the director of the Harwood Arms in Fulham, London's only pub with the Michelin Star. Brett, welcome to table talk. Thank you very much, having me. Brett, as our listeners know, we always start at the very beginning. What are your earliest memories of food? It's a question I get asked quite a lot

1:13.1

that because, you know, I grew up in Australia in the 80s and food wasn't the sort of thing that was,

1:18.0

or food and ingredients wasn't the sort of thing that was centre of conversation really.

1:22.6

And we definitely weren't the sort of family that were at the backyard picking apricots before

1:26.3

breakfast. I remember dinners for us

1:28.5

were like usually a piece of meat, meat with microwaved peas, that sort of thing. And my mum's

1:34.7

speciality was tin salmon lasagna. I can remember her making that on a special occasion. We're growing up

1:40.2

at that time, like I said, food wasn't a real passion for anyone in terms of trying to

1:44.7

source out ingredients or new restaurants and dining wasn't the way it is in modern times now.

1:50.2

So the sort of memories I can remember, a lot of it was around barbecues in Australia as well

...

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