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Good Food

SPAM is a classic immigrant success story

Good Food

KCRW

Society & Culture

4.61.1K Ratings

🗓️ 1 May 2026

⏱️ 59 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

This week on Good Food:

  • Kelly A. Spring peels back the tin on SPAM, the divisive meat that's been crucial to American diplomacy and multiple war efforts.
  • Alana Kysar shifts the focus from seafood and pork to produce in her Hawaiian dishes.
  • Khushbu Shah weighs in on LA's bagel boom.
  • The Hollywood Farmers Market celebrates 35 years. 

Connect with Good Food host Evan Kleiman on Substack.

 

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

From KCRW, I'm Evan Klyman, and this is good food.

0:05.1

Spam. Love it or hate it, just the word conjures up visceral memories.

0:11.1

It should be noted that it's a particular skill to get it out of the can to begin with.

0:15.7

You know, you sort of have to shake it and bend it and fold, and it makes that little, like,

0:19.2

thwack sound when you're sort of successful. Here in the U.S., the ham in the can has fallen out of favor, but it continues to be a

0:26.7

pantry staple elsewhere in the world. In spam, a global history, Dr. Kelly A. Spring calls it a

0:33.7

classic immigrant success story, the backbone of multiple war efforts, and a crucial

0:39.8

instrument of American diplomacy over the last hundred years. Hi, Kelly. Hi, Evan. Thanks so much

0:47.0

for having me. It's great to be here. Oh, we're glad to have you. So tell me a bit about what

0:52.9

inspired you to take this deep dive into the world of spam.

0:57.2

Have you always been a fan?

0:58.6

Did you grow up with it?

1:00.1

Oh, yeah, that's a good question.

1:01.5

It's a long story.

1:03.0

We had it as children.

1:05.0

So, you know, it's very useful because it's sort of in a can and you can sort of take it very easily.

1:10.0

So we would go camping. And sometimes

1:11.4

we would have it camping. So my parents would kind of cook it up, like fried up on an open fire on a, you know, a pan or something. And I didn't like it. You know, my sister and I would eat it. And we didn't really like it. And so I wasn't really interested in as a kid, which is interesting given that I've just written a book about it.

1:28.5

I studied my PhD and I looked at British food restaurants. I wasn't really interested in as a kid, which is interesting given that I've just written a book about it.

1:28.5

I studied my PhD and I looked at British food rationing and gender.

1:32.7

And so I'm interested in like World War II food rationing.

1:35.5

And so spam is very big in that.

...

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