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Harlem in New York has been going through some dramatic changes in the last decade.

Michael Goldfab continues his exploration of the most dynamic African-American neighbourhood in the USA.

For me, a New Yorker, born and bred, who left the city a quarter of a century ago.

The changes in Harlem go way beyond my ability to describe them.

They are simply jaw-dropping.

I knew Harlem in the 1970s, when I earned a living as a taxicab driver.

I worked Harlem, and the police who saw me doing so used to tell me to get downtown where I belong.

Harlem streets back then were overrun with filth, and today their pristine.

Houses were abandoned and decaying.

Today they have been renovated and are occupied.

An electric current of frustrated hatred directed at me, crackled off the sidewalks.

But today...

Today, the folks around 120th street between 5th and Glenux avenues, the block I'm talking about,

are downright hospitable to an outsider like me.

A white tiptoe around the subject.

I'm white.

Harlem has for most of the last 80 years been an African-American neighbourhood, the ghetto of ghettos.

But that's changing, and changing fast.

Although the main commercial area, 125th street around Glenux avenue,

...