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Good Food

'Maíz is life' — the history, science, and politics of masa

Good Food

KCRW

Society & Culture

4.51K Ratings

🗓️ 31 December 2022

⏱️ 57 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

*This episode originally aired on October 15th, 2022*

Some people measure the passing of time by the weather. Some people measure it by holidays. Good Food measures it in tortillas. Every year, for the last five years, host Evan Kleiman helps Gustavo Arellano judge KCRW's Tortilla Tournament. Every year, it has gotten bigger and more competitive. Every year, listeners learn a little more about the subtleties of texture, flavor, density, and consistency. But in half a decade, one thing has remained the same — at the heart of any truly great tortilla or pupusa or tamal, you'll find one ingredient — masa.

Transcript

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0:00.0

Oh, it's starting to puff. That is always a good sign. It's like the West Minster Dog Show right now. We're seeing the bubbles. It's

0:14.8

starting on corn tortillas. It's rare when the when the corn tortilla bubbles I need to get my

0:20.0

best. Eugene Levy voice. Now we're gonna to flip it. You see it still hasn't

0:25.2

charred yet which is a good thing right now but we're going to heat up because this is a

0:28.9

little bit thicker than most machine-made corn tortillas and it's also blue corn which you always advocate for.

0:35.2

Well blue corn has a very different consistency so when it's made well before you

0:40.4

cook it it is definitely sturdier it's less gritty there's something about it where the

0:46.1

masa comes out just smoother yeah let's go for it we have a lot to taste. So it's warm. Mm. Oh that is so right off the back.

0:57.4

So good. It never disintegrated. Oh, it tastes so delicious. It has this earthiness to it, that blue corn and parts, and it's also thick, like,

1:07.0

this would be perfect for a chazadea, a taco,

1:10.0

junking.

1:11.0

It's gonna really hold up.

1:12.0

This would actually make a great taco Dorado.

1:14.7

Mmm. And what's really interesting about tasting tortillas that I've learned over the years,

1:20.3

there are no flavors that stand out. This is all about subtlety. So usually when you taste a tortilla if there's a stand out flavor often it's a fault

1:29.6

So it's sourness. It's the acidity of it going off, or it's the bitterness of the preservative.

1:36.0

Some people measure the passing of time by the weather. Some people measure it by

1:47.7

holidays. I measure it in tortillas. Every year for the last five years I've been helping Gustavo Ariano

1:56.1

judge KCRW's tortilla tournament. Every year it's gotten a little bigger and more

2:02.4

competitive. Every year I've learned a little bigger and more competitive.

2:04.0

Every year I've learned a little more about the subtleties of texture, flavor, density, and

2:09.1

consistency.

...

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