4.6 • 890 Ratings
🗓️ 10 February 2024
⏱️ 2 minutes
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0:00.0 | So when we first moved to this beach right here a couple years ago, I never surfed a day in my life. |
0:07.0 | And at 39 years old, picking up a sport like surfing isn't always the easiest thing to do. |
0:11.0 | But I thought, hey, I live at the beach, |
0:12.5 | I want to push myself, I want to try to do something new. |
0:14.6 | So I'm going to start surfing. |
0:15.6 | And I did. |
0:16.4 | And I loved it. |
0:17.6 | And you know, when you first start, of course, |
0:19.9 | you know you're going to be horrible, especially |
0:21.6 | it's something like surfing that takes such a unique |
0:24.8 | skill set that if you've never done it before, you're not going to be able to pick it up right |
0:28.5 | away. |
0:29.5 | So I know it's going to be horrible. |
0:30.5 | Sure enough, I was horrible. But I didn't care because I was getting out in the ocean doing something new and I expect myself to be horrible. |
0:37.0 | But then about a year and a half in, I hit a point where I was really frustrated that I didn't feel like I was getting any better. |
0:45.6 | And we were down in Costa Rica and the waves are perfect there and there's so many people out |
0:49.8 | and a lot of those people are really good surfers, some of them are beginners. |
0:54.0 | And I just felt like I hadn't progressed the way that I wanted to. |
0:58.0 | And I'm watching this one guy take incredible waves. |
1:02.0 | He's the best surfer out there by far. He's even surfing, like surfing |
1:07.1 | while doing a handstand on the board, he's walking backwards, like spinning his board |
1:11.0 | in 360s, he's just a truly incredible surfer. |
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