Life Lessons from Big Wave Surfing with Shane Dorian

Wild Ideas Worth Living

REI Co-op

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4.7 • 1.3K Ratings

🗓️ 5 September 2023

⏱️ 29 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Shane Dorian is a legendary surfer, winning his first surf contest when he was just 11 years old. At 21, he joined the World Surf League and traveled the globe to compete with other athletes. Shane has won countless competitions over the years including 11 WSL Big Wave Awards. He was part of a generation of surfers who became influential in the sport, and was able to make a career out of surfing full time. Now, after more than 30 years as a professional athlete, Shane has some wisdom to share.

Transcript

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0:00.0	As a kid in the late 80s and 90s, I grew up watching some of the most legendary surfers
0:07.4	compete in their prime.
0:09.2	One of them was Shane Dorian.
0:11.2	Shane was part of a generation of surfers who became influential in the sport and he was
0:15.0	able to make a career out of surfing full time.
0:18.4	Now after more than 30 years as a professional athlete, Shane has some wisdom to share.
0:23.4	I'm Shelby Stanger and this is Wild Ideas Worth Living, an REI co-op studios production.
0:29.7	Shane Dorian won his first surf contest when he was just 11 years old.
0:36.7	At 21, he joined the World Surf League which is like the NFL for surfing.
0:41.5	He traveled the globe and competed with other athletes, some you might have heard of,
0:46.2	guys like Kelly Slater and Rob Machado.
0:49.4	He's won countless competitions over the years as well as 11 WSL Big Wave Awards.
0:55.6	Growing up in Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii, Shane's relationship with Ocean Sports
1:01.0	started when he was young.
1:06.2	I want to dig into Kona because I think it's such a unique place.
1:09.4	The contrast is really the dark and the light there is really bold.
1:13.5	I love it.
1:14.5	It's my favorite Hawaiian island.
1:15.9	So how did growing up there, like how did you get into surfing?
1:19.1	Because it's not known as like the best surfing place but there are definitely waves and
1:22.6	when it's good, it's good.
1:24.8	So where I was born and raised in Kona, the surf is normally pretty small.
	...

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