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Climbing Gold

Forerunner

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Wilderness, Sports

4.9983 Ratings

🗓️ 27 August 2021

⏱️ 37 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Right now, the spotlight shines brightly on the newest generation of competition climbers, but the path they’re following was blazed by those before them. Today, we talk with Alex Johnson, or AJ, who has ridden the highs and lows of professional climbing over the last 20 years. She won her first bouldering national competition at age 12 before going on to win two golds at Bouldering World Cups. Her career charts a fascinating shift in climbing culture, the comp circuit and the hurdles to being a professional climber.

Transcript

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0:00.0

I was thinking I could play some songs.

0:03.0

Minneapolis, 2018.

0:06.0

Professional Rock Climber, two-time World Cup winner, Alex Johnson, was begrudgingly at a Taylor Swift concert.

0:13.0

I was like, oh my God, I don't want to be here at all.

0:15.0

There's like a bunch of teenage girls and like moms, and I just like start putting them back. So I don't want to be here. It feels so weird.

0:23.1

But I like promised this friend and she did us a huge favor and so I'm just like swaying in the

0:28.4

crowd like what nosebleed seats back and forth. And then I remember like watching Taylor Swift on

0:34.9

the stage and somehow remembering she had this album that was called

0:39.2

1989. She was born in 1989 and so was I. And I was like, damn, we're the same age. We're

0:45.2

both like about to be 30. After competing on the international bouldering circuit for the better part

0:50.1

of a decade, she felt burned out and had taken a three-year break from competition climbing.

0:55.3

She'd found an outdoor project to throw herself at, and her chosen challenge, the swarm of

0:59.9

V-13 V14 and the buttermilks outside of Bishop, California, had been shutting her down. That summer,

1:06.1

she'd been hanging with friends, coaching climbing, just kind of drifting. Oh, why do I feel so, like, washed up? And she's just, like, out here selling out

1:14.8

stadiums. Huh, that's fucked. Maybe I shouldn't feel this way. Maybe being 30 means I'm, like,

1:20.9

not done, and I have, like, all this more to give. And then it was, like, really eye-opening.

1:24.7

And I texted a friend of mine. And I and I was like hey I'm thinking of doing this

1:28.5

this friend happens to be Christina Wilson who won season 10 of Gordon Ramsey's Hell Kitchen

1:34.2

and she's like super successful and like a total badass and I was like you know I'm thinking of doing

1:39.8

this and she was like fuck yeah dude you totally should like never give up on your dreams and I was like

1:43.4

cool okay that's all I needed and so it was like, fuck yeah, dude, you totally should. Like, never give up on your dreams. And I was like, cool, okay.

1:46.2

That's all I needed.

...

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