Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 4 January 2023

⏱️ 26 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends. Welcome to the Nugget Climbing podcast. This is Stephen Dimmit. And today I've got a bonus
0:07.8	episode for you that is available right now for patrons who support the Nugget for $5 per month or more.
0:15.6	There's a link right there in your podcast app if you want to become a patron of the Nugget. That'll get you access to more than
0:23.8	40 follow-up interviews that I've done with past guests from the show episodes like this one.
0:29.4	I'm going to give you a free teaser of this conversation today that you can listen to right
0:33.2	here for free. The full version of this conversation is an hour and 30 minutes. So we really went
0:39.3	into the weeds on this finger training stuff that Tyler Nelson has been experimenting with.
0:45.3	Tyler's back on the show. He's been on the show a couple times before. And in this follow-up episode,
0:50.5	we really dive into the weeds on some of the most recent experiments that Tyler
0:55.4	has been doing with his clients and in his clinic when it comes to finger training.
0:59.8	And it's, believe it or not, totally different than a lot of the hangboarding protocols
1:04.5	and methodologies that I've talked about on the podcast before with Tyler and with other
1:09.4	guests. So this was a really interesting conversation,
1:12.3	and it actually took me a while to kind of get my head around what Tyler was saying in this
1:17.5	interview. So for those of you who are really excited about this stuff and want to dig into it,
1:22.6	if you become a patron for five bucks per month, it just takes a few minutes to sign up.
1:27.1	You'll get the full hour and a half
1:29.1	long audio version of this interview. You'll get the full uncut video from this interview if you
1:35.7	want to see us talking and see some of the finger position demonstrations and things that Tyler
1:41.4	is describing. I think that could be helpful. And then I also made a six
1:45.7	minute long clarification video that goes along with this episode in case anything is confusing. So we
1:52.6	recorded this follow-up back in mid-October. I was still a little bit confused about some of this
	...

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