Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Steven Dimmitt
4.2 • 576 Ratings
🗓️ 5 August 2022
⏱️ 24 minutes
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| 0:00.0 | Hey friends, Stephen here. I've got a new follow-up episode for you today. This is a bonus episode |
| 0:07.6 | that is available right now for patrons who support the Nugget climbing podcast on patreon.com. |
| 0:14.3 | I'll talk more about that in a second. My follow-up today is with Matt Fultz. Matt is absolutely |
| 0:20.7 | crushing it right now. I've had him on |
| 0:23.3 | the show before. He was in episode 39, and we talked about his send of hypnotized minds, V-16. |
| 0:29.9 | He's sent four additional V-16s in the last couple years, and he's at the top of his game, |
| 0:35.9 | and it was super fun to catch up with Matt. |
| 0:37.7 | I was really curious with Matt to geek out about training for really small holds. |
| 0:43.6 | Matt is a really strong, muscular climber and has climbed two of the hardest crimp boulders in the world. |
| 0:51.3 | And I was really curious to hear how he goes about his training, |
| 0:55.3 | what types of hangboarding exercises he does, what types of climbing training he does to get his |
| 1:00.5 | fingers strong enough to climb on tiny, tiny crimps on things like hypnotized minds and |
| 1:06.0 | brace for the cure, which is Matt's most recent V-16 first descent up in Rocky Mountain National Park. So that's what we |
| 1:13.3 | geeked out about in this conversation. We talked about what he's been up to in the last couple |
| 1:17.7 | years since our last conversation, why he thinks the spray wall is the gold standard for training |
| 1:23.7 | and how he uses it in his go-to sessions on the spray wall for himself and that he |
| 1:29.4 | recommends for his clients. We talked about takeaways from his finger injury last year and what |
| 1:35.1 | he learned from that. We talked about how he incorporates hangboarding and using no hang implements |
| 1:40.3 | into his week. Favorite hangboard and no hang protocols to get his fingers strong why he does |
| 1:46.6 | most of his finger training on 20 mil edges pretty big edges relative to some of the holds that he's |
| 1:52.7 | climbing on and why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10 millimeters that was super interesting |
| 1:58.4 | and i found it really helpful for myself in guiding my training moving |
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