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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Power Company, Steven Dimmitt, Enormocast, Lattice Training, Steven Dimmit, Climbing Gold, Runout, Nugget, Yosemite, Bouldering, The, The Nugget Climbing, Talk, Training For Climbing, Climber, Wilderness, The Nugget, Project, Climbing History, Nugget Podcast, Health & Fitness, Fitness, The Struggle Climbing Show, American, Training, Training Beta, Careless, Smith Rock, Alpine Climbing, Climbing, Dirtbag State Of Mind, Climbing Podcast, Education, Climb, @Thenuggetclimbing, Dirtbag, Nugget Climbing, Lattice, Trad Climbing, Rock Climbing, Sharp End, The Struggle, Sport Climbing, For The Love Of Climbing, The American Climbing Project, The Climbing Nugget, Dirtbag Diaries, Struggle, Nugget Climbing Podcast, Climbing Training, The Nugget Climbing Podcast, Testpiece, Sports, Climbing Nugget, Alex Honnold, Self-improvement, Thenuggetclimbing, Gold, Nuggetclimbing

4.2576 Ratings

🗓️ 5 August 2022

⏱️ 24 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:04:24. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Hey friends, Stephen here. I've got a new follow-up episode for you today. This is a bonus episode

0:07.6

that is available right now for patrons who support the Nugget climbing podcast on patreon.com.

0:14.3

I'll talk more about that in a second. My follow-up today is with Matt Fultz. Matt is absolutely

0:20.7

crushing it right now. I've had him on

0:23.3

the show before. He was in episode 39, and we talked about his send of hypnotized minds, V-16.

0:29.9

He's sent four additional V-16s in the last couple years, and he's at the top of his game,

0:35.9

and it was super fun to catch up with Matt.

0:37.7

I was really curious with Matt to geek out about training for really small holds.

0:43.6

Matt is a really strong, muscular climber and has climbed two of the hardest crimp boulders in the world.

0:51.3

And I was really curious to hear how he goes about his training,

0:55.3

what types of hangboarding exercises he does, what types of climbing training he does to get his

1:00.5

fingers strong enough to climb on tiny, tiny crimps on things like hypnotized minds and

1:06.0

brace for the cure, which is Matt's most recent V-16 first descent up in Rocky Mountain National Park. So that's what we

1:13.3

geeked out about in this conversation. We talked about what he's been up to in the last couple

1:17.7

years since our last conversation, why he thinks the spray wall is the gold standard for training

1:23.7

and how he uses it in his go-to sessions on the spray wall for himself and that he

1:29.4

recommends for his clients. We talked about takeaways from his finger injury last year and what

1:35.1

he learned from that. We talked about how he incorporates hangboarding and using no hang implements

1:40.3

into his week. Favorite hangboard and no hang protocols to get his fingers strong why he does

1:46.6

most of his finger training on 20 mil edges pretty big edges relative to some of the holds that he's

1:52.7

climbing on and why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10 millimeters that was super interesting

1:58.4

and i found it really helpful for myself in guiding my training moving

...

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