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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Power Company, Steven Dimmitt, Enormocast, Lattice Training, Steven Dimmit, Climbing Gold, Runout, Nugget, Yosemite, Bouldering, The, The Nugget Climbing, Talk, Training For Climbing, Climber, Wilderness, The Nugget, Project, Climbing History, Nugget Podcast, Health & Fitness, Fitness, The Struggle Climbing Show, American, Training, Training Beta, Careless, Smith Rock, Alpine Climbing, Climbing, Dirtbag State Of Mind, Climbing Podcast, Education, Climb, @Thenuggetclimbing, Dirtbag, Nugget Climbing, Lattice, Trad Climbing, Rock Climbing, Sharp End, The Struggle, Sport Climbing, For The Love Of Climbing, The American Climbing Project, The Climbing Nugget, Dirtbag Diaries, Struggle, Nugget Climbing Podcast, Climbing Training, The Nugget Climbing Podcast, Testpiece, Sports, Climbing Nugget, Alex Honnold, Self-improvement, Thenuggetclimbing, Gold, Nuggetclimbing

4.2576 Ratings

🗓️ 7 July 2022

⏱️ 22 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:02:56.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Hey friends, welcome back to another bonus episode. Today I've got another follow-up conversation

0:06.7

for you with Alita Contreras from back in episode 87. Alita is a Colombian rock climber,

0:15.5

climbing coach, and a translator. She has translated many climbing books and training books into Spanish.

0:23.3

And Alita is also the first Colombian woman to climb 513C and 513D.

0:28.6

And now, as of very recently, 514A. In our first conversation back in episode 87,

0:34.7

she was projecting her first 514, feeling like she was getting close. We talked all about

0:40.8

that in that conversation. And a little over a month ago, she sent it. And I got a chance to sit down and

0:46.1

talk with her and hear all about it in this follow-up conversation. So I'm going to give you guys

0:51.4

a free teaser of the conversation, about 15 minutes or so of the conversation.

0:57.3

The full episode is about an hour long. And we talked about mental training.

1:03.2

Alita thinks that her mental strength is one of her greatest strengths in climbing, and that's

1:08.4

something she focuses on in her coaching and she had some interesting

1:11.3

things to say about that and since our last conversation she also has been working with lattice

1:17.2

training and has been getting her own coaching through lattice and she credits that as a huge part

1:23.2

of what helped her send Ferrari which is her first 514A. So we talked a lot about that.

1:28.7

We talked about what was different training with Ladis than how she's trained herself in the past.

1:33.1

And it was super interesting.

1:34.6

She talked about getting assessed by her coach at Ladis and discovering that she had different strengths and weaknesses than she had thought.

1:41.6

And we talked a lot about how she worked on building foot tension and

1:46.1

getting better at keeping her foot on when moonboarding and doing hard moves and things like that.

1:52.2

It was a combination of some strength training and some drills and technical skills and stuff

1:58.0

on the wall. So we talked all about that in the conversation,

...

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