EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.2 • 576 Ratings

🗓️ 1 April 2025

⏱️ 29 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out? Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast. This is Stephen Dimit.
0:07.1	My guest today is one of you guys. I interviewed one of my patrons for this episode, and it was really fun.
0:13.6	This is a new thing I'm trying out. I want to do a lot more of it, more about that in a second.
0:18.6	But my guest today is Connor Bowden, and the reason I'm having Connor on the show is because he did a very interesting experiment
0:25.5	where he climbed for 100 days straight, just 30 minutes a day of pretty easy climbing.
0:31.8	And he got some pretty amazing results.
0:34.1	His critical force went through the roof.
0:37.2	And his sport climbing ability also
0:39.1	shot way up in the course of the 100 day experiment. So yeah, I wanted to chat with him and find
0:44.9	out exactly what he did and what he learned from it, what he'll do differently if he tries it
0:50.5	again. We talked about how anybody out there could take lessons from this and make some
0:56.0	tweaks to their own training program to build some endurance. And I thought it was great. It's really
1:00.3	interesting. And I want to do more episodes like this. I realize that there are many thousands of
1:05.7	you who listen to the podcast regularly. I don't have the time or the bandwidth to test out all of the great advice from all of my
1:13.6	guests. I haven't had the chance to try all of the different endurance protocols or hangboard
1:19.5	protocols or tactics or things along these lines. But I know that many of you love to
1:25.1	experiments. You love to test out things in your training. And it'd be really fun to have more of you on the show. So anyway, I'm doing a new series called Patron Spotlights. This is the first one. And of course, I'm talking to you guys on the free podcast right now. So I'm going to give you the free teaser for this episode. The full thing is about an hour and 20 minutes and it's available right now
1:44.8	for patrons at patreon.com slash the nugget climbing. You guys know the drill, but if you
1:51.1	want to hear the whole episode and if you want a chance to be on the show, I would love to
1:56.7	hear about your training experiments. Tell me what you tried, how it went. What did you do that led
2:03.2	you to have a breakthrough and climb the hardest route of your life? What have you tried that was a
2:07.7	total disaster and what did you learn from it? Anything along those lines, I would love to feature your
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