EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 7 October 2024

⏱️ 124 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimmit. My guest
0:07.7	today is root setter, Molly Beard. I've been wanting to sit down with Molly for quite a long time.
0:14.4	She actually taught a root setting clinic that I was a part of 15 years ago at Western Washington
0:20.0	University, and it was really fun to come full circle and finally get a chance to I was a part of 15 years ago at Western Washington University.
0:21.6	And it was really fun to come full circle and finally get a chance to know her more deeply all these years later.
0:28.1	And I got to sit down with her at her house in Hood River, Oregon.
0:31.9	She and her husband fed me breakfast.
0:33.7	And then we had a really great conversation.
0:35.5	So I think you guys are going to enjoy this one, especially if you're a root setter and are interested in hopefully having a long and healthy
0:42.6	career. We talked a lot about that, how to take care of your body and how to have longevity as a
0:47.5	root setter. But if you're interested in the climbing industry, indoor climbing, making a living
0:52.9	and climbing, anything like that,
0:54.4	or you just want to hear from someone who's been in it a long time and has a lot of
1:00.2	lived experience to talk about, then I think you're really going to enjoy this one.
1:04.7	We've got a special treat for you root setters today.
1:07.4	Because Molly was on the show, I was really excited to try to get a discount on climbing
1:11.7	holds from one of her favorite brands. So we've got a discount from Osalot Grips later in the
1:17.2	episode. So be sure to stay tuned for that. All right, please enjoy Molly Beard. Cause, cast, cast. No one can do it like we do it like we do it like we do it like we do it like we do it like we do it like we do it
1:33.3	Like we do it
1:34.3	I have notes on my laptop but I'm just gonna look at everything on my phone
1:38.3	I was gonna say I looked at your little interview notes this morning and I was like
1:42.3	Oh you did?
	...

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