EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 9 September 2024

⏱️ 130 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hey friends, before we jump into today's episode, I want to tell you about my brand new hangboard.
0:07.8	I'm so stoked about it. It's called The Nug. This is a collaboration with frictitious climbing.
0:13.4	I've had this hangboard design in my head for years. It's super portable. It's the best portable
0:19.2	hangboard I've ever used. I'm obviously biased,
0:21.8	but I designed it the way that I did for a reason. I use it for edge lifting and training.
0:28.1	I use it to warm up at the crag every single time I go climbing. It weighs almost nothing. It weighs
0:34.2	less than one climbing shoe. And I'm super proud of how it turned out. I would love it if you guys would check it out if you need something to warm up with at the crag or if you enjoy training. I made a short video talking about the design and everything I like about it. You can find it on the product page at fructitious climbing.com or you can get there through my website at the nuggetclimbing.com.
0:55.6	Just look forward the Nug at the top of the page. I hope you check it out and enjoy today's
1:00.4	episode.
1:03.9	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimit.
1:10.3	Eve Gravel is back on the show today. I hear a lot of people
1:13.2	butcher the pronunciation of his name, but it is pronounced Eve. It's a French name and the S is
1:19.1	silent in case you were wondering. Anyway, Eve was on in episode 117. I really enjoyed that episode,
1:25.3	but this one is a standalone. So if you missed that one,
1:28.0	not to worry at all. In case you don't know or have forgotten, Eve is known for having some of
1:34.4	the strongest fingers in the world. He's a three-time world champion in armlifting professional
1:40.1	league, which is a subset of grip sports or a specific professional league of grip sports so he's got some of the strongest fingers out there he's also a really good climber he's climbed as hard as v15 and he's incredibly thoughtful about his training he's a total geek in the best way possible. I always love talking to this guy and just hearing
2:01.1	how analytical he is. And I always learn a lot from talking to Eve. I have a new grip goal and
2:07.1	I thought Eve would be the perfect person to talk about it with to help guide me towards my new
2:12.9	finger strength goal. I talk about that at the start of the episode so I won't go into the details
2:17.0	here. And this episode turned out very differently from what I thought it would be. I talk about that at the start of the episode, so I won't go into the details here.
2:21.9	And this episode turned out very differently from what I thought it would be. I thought we were going to talk about, like, hypothetically, if I wanted to quit climbing and just get as strong as
	...

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