EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 24 June 2024

⏱️ 156 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast.
0:05.5	This is your host, Stephen Demett.
0:07.7	My guest today is a world-class climber and coach, Justin Sean.
0:12.3	Justin is also known as the climbing sense.
0:14.8	He's really good at working with athletes on their breathing, their focus, their mental game, their technique, all of the non-physical,
0:23.9	non-physical strength components of becoming a better climber. He's got a great track record. He's
0:29.3	also an amazing climber. Justin's in his 50s. In the early 2000s, he was definitely one of the
0:34.5	better climbers in the country, having climbed 514B sport routes.
0:39.3	He also did the first free ascent of Magic Mushroom on El Capitan with Tommy Caldwell.
0:44.5	It's a badass 514A with a bunch of hard pitches on it.
0:48.1	And yeah, this guy really knows his stuff.
0:49.6	I really enjoyed getting to know Justin and talking to him.
0:52.4	And the idea for this episode was to be something
0:55.6	of a masterclass on technique. And that's a really big topic and a lot of it is very abstract.
1:04.1	And it's a lot to cover in a podcast. It's hard to teach technique on a podcast, obviously. So what I
1:10.3	decided to do with Justin for this episode was to focus
1:13.2	on a specific technique that I'm working on right now in my climbing and have him coach me through
1:19.2	that. We go into all of it in the episode, so I'm not going to talk about it here. But my hope for
1:23.8	this episode is that either you relate to the thing I'm working on and it's directly
1:28.3	helpful or you can follow the way that Justin thinks about breaking down skills and techniques
1:35.6	and how he coached me through practicing and basically borrow his framework and hopefully
1:43.3	after this interview you can apply it to whatever
	...

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