EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 17 June 2024

⏱️ 137 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimit.
0:07.5	My guest today is Yana Schwetzava. You might recognize her as climbing Jane on Instagram.
0:14.0	Yana is from the Czech Republic. She's got a great accent. You'll hear that as soon as we dive into
0:18.7	the episode. And she's also one of the best
0:22.8	boulders in the world. She's really emerged as one of the top female boulders and is really
0:28.5	pushing the limits of female bouldering. She did her first V-15 this last fall. It was a first
0:36.4	ascent of a boulder called Nova. And she's been pretty outspoken about trying a V-15 this last fall. It was a first ascent of a boulder called Nova, and she's been pretty
0:39.6	outspoken about trying a V-16 called Terra Nova, which is a traverse that was established by
0:45.4	Adam Andra many years ago. Nova, the V-15 that she did the first ascent of basically climbs the
0:51.0	second half of it from a different start that she pioneered and yeah terra nova the
0:56.5	v16 has gone unrepeated since 2011 when adam andre made the first ascent will bozzi tried it and thinks it's
1:04.8	really hard will repeated nova after yanna did the first ascent of Nova and actually was the one to upgrade it from
1:12.7	the 14 to V-15. Will thinks it's really, really hard and it took him several days. So yeah,
1:18.0	Yanna is a total badass and she was really lovely to talk to. We talked about her upbringing and
1:25.0	her early climbing. She was a very successful competition climber.
1:29.2	She was a European Cup winner.
1:31.7	When she was young, she competed in lead climbing competitions
1:35.4	and then eventually quit climbing for a while,
1:38.6	got back into climbing and started bouldering outside
1:40.9	and has really found her niche.
1:44.1	And I'm really excited to see what she does
1:46.2	in the coming years. I think we're going to be hearing a lot more about Yanna. But I was excited to get
	...

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