EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 8 April 2024

⏱️ 109 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast.
0:05.6	This is your host, Stephen Dimmit.
0:07.7	We've got an elite performer on the show today.
0:10.2	My guest today is Simon Lorenzi.
0:13.0	If you haven't heard of this guy, prepare to be very impressed by this man.
0:19.9	Simon was the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A or V-17.
0:26.2	He did the first ascent of Sudan soul in Fontaine Blow. He's repeated Alphane and he recently
0:31.9	became the third person to climb burden of dreams, the first V-17 in the world. Simon is from Belgium. He's 27 years old,
0:39.7	and he mostly focuses on competition climbing, mostly on bouldering and lead. And I joke in this
0:47.0	episode that he has become one of the best boulders in the world on accident. And it's kind of
0:51.8	true. He just climbs outside in his breaks from competition
0:55.7	and has managed to rack up one of the most impressive bouldering tick lists of all time. So I really
1:01.8	enjoyed getting to know Simon and talking with him. And it takes us a little while to warm up,
1:06.5	but around 20 minutes, I thought things got really interesting.
1:11.3	I loved hearing about why Simon loves projecting at his limit so much.
1:16.6	And what that does for his mindset, he talked about the projecting bubble.
1:20.6	We talked about dealing with external pressure and things like bad weather and how he manages frustration. He talked about optimism and
1:30.7	looking for solutions to problems. He talked about the goal of struggling, which I thought was really
1:35.9	cool. And we talked about his dad. His dad was an amazing climber in his day, one of the best
1:41.2	climbers in Belgium in the 90s. And he climbed the first 8C or 514B in
1:46.7	Belgium. It was really fun to hear about his relationship with his dad and the support that he gets
1:52.7	from his dad on the emotional side of his climbing. So all in all this was a great conversation.
	...

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