EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 26 February 2024

⏱️ 105 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends. Welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimmit.
0:08.4	We have a very good episode today. My guest today is Paul Hagoge. He goes by Huffy. He goes by the
0:15.6	climbing physio. Paul is one of the top physiotherapists in the world when it comes to all things climbing injuries.
0:22.5	What causes them, how to rehab them, how to prevent them in the future.
0:27.0	So yeah, this guy knows this stuff.
0:28.2	And we got into many topics in this conversation.
0:31.6	We talked for quite a while about fingers.
0:34.5	Specifically, we talked about lumbricle injuries.
0:37.4	Those seem to be getting a lot more
0:38.8	common. We talked about why that is how to rehab lumbricle injuries and how to prevent them.
0:45.1	We talked about training with hyper-mobile fingers. We talked about synovitis and capsulitis
0:50.9	and causes of those things and how to prevent those.
0:57.5	We talked about why stretching your fingers is really important.
0:59.9	We talked about wrist-strengthening exercises.
1:04.7	That's probably my biggest takeaway from this episode is that I need to be strengthening my wrists to support my finger health and my finger strength.
1:09.7	We talked about tennis elbow and golfer's elbow,
1:13.1	how to decipher different types of elbow pain, and Paul shared his top advice to not get injured.
1:19.4	I really enjoy that. That came at the very end, and I thought he left us with a really great
1:24.0	nugget. If you have one of the injuries that we talk about in this conversation or you want to try
1:30.6	some of the exercises that Paul recommends, definitely check out the video for this podcast.
1:37.0	I always upload the uncut videos on my Patreon, and I highly recommend watching this one
1:43.7	rather than listening.
	...

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