EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 19 February 2024

⏱️ 128 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, my friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast.
0:05.7	This is your host, Stephen Dimmit.
0:08.2	My guest today is Charlie Shriver.
0:11.1	Charlie is back on the show.
0:13.1	He's been on twice before, but just in case you have forgotten,
0:16.6	Charlie is a professional climbing coach.
0:18.4	He's taken day one athletes to become youth and open national
0:21.8	champions, 514D sport climbers and V-15 boulderers. This guy has coached many young athletes to
0:29.8	become incredible climbers, some of the best climbers in the country. And he's a badass climber
0:34.8	himself. Charlie climbed his first V-13 last year and quickly went on to send two more. And he's a badass climber himself. Charlie climbed his first V-13 last year and quickly went on to send two more.
0:41.2	And he's made some major life adjustments since our last conversation. He quit his job.
0:46.8	He's now putting all of his time and energy into his own coaching business, Paradigm, climbing.
0:50.9	He teamed up with Alex Johnson. They are coaching together with paradigm. We talked about
0:55.6	that. And he's doing a lot more traveling and climbing for the next year. We talked about why that is.
1:02.5	But Charlie actually sat down with me from Fontainebleau. He's on a month-long trip. He's actually
1:07.5	still there. And if you follow Charlie on Instagram, I know many of you do,
1:11.6	he has become obsessed with the Big Island, a famous V-15 or 8C in Fontainebleau, and he actually
1:18.9	built a perfect replica of the boulder. You know, replicas have become more popular, and that
1:24.4	might not seem like a big deal to some of you, but this boulder is way more complex
1:28.4	to replicate than something like Burden of Dreams. We talked about all the complexity. This involved
1:33.9	building volumes, 3D models of the boulder, 3D models of the gym that he built the replica at,
1:39.7	building volumes, 3D printing holds to go on the volumes. He ended up making a perfect replica of one of the
	...

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