It's the Brian Lair Show on WNYC. I'm Bridget Bergen.

Filling in for Brian today.

You're in a restaurant, white tablecloths, the sound of dishes, silverware, the low hum of conversation, and wafting from

the kitchen, brown butter and wood smoke. Your meal comes, you take a bite, and boom, it's packed

with flavor, but here's the thing. Odds are the flavor you tasted in that dish, at many restaurants across the city, it's salt.

And we mean a lot of salt.

You probably couldn't even guess how much salt.

Now, is that a bad thing?

Joining us to answer that question is Adam Platt, features writer and former restaurant critic at New York Magazine.

His new article published in the magazine posing a question of its own is titled,

Is All This Salt Killing Us?

Adam, welcome to WNYC.

Thank you so much for having me.

Now, your article is all about the hidden access of salt at restaurants,

and you end it with a tale of two birds.

Two chickens at Cafe Commerce, one roasted for home eating, the other for the restaurant.

Can you tell us that story?

Yes.

So there's a chef, very nice, very talented chef named Harold Moore, who runs Cafe Commerce.

He kindly invited me into his kitchen to see how the sausage was made, the proverbial sausage.

And his signature dish for many years has been a version of pullet roti, which is roast chicken,

which he started cooking at a restaurant called Montrechesh downtown.

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